Featured Gold (?) buckle locket, what age and any info please!

Discussion in 'Jewelry' started by Elen Beattie, Jul 12, 2025.

  1. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Hello all! This locket came amongst a lot I won at auction recently, I thought it was a little older but didn't think much of it as it had black marks all over it and I assumed it was worn, gold plated (or gold filled etc.).

    I was cleaning and testing a bunch of jewelry today and was surprised that practically all of the black came off as dirt. I have tested it several times and it keeps coming back as 14K (or maybe 15ct if British?), the rose gold ring holding the bail is testing at 10K (or maybe 9ct if British). I'm wondering if it could be thickly plated and still test as gold? I don't want to get too excited that it might be actual gold just yet (as it's 24g) :hilarious:. Also, what age do you think it is, Edwardian? or a revival piece? The slightly odd thing is, is that inside where the photos would be appears to be covered in a thin plastic-like material, not glass. Any info appreciated, thank you!

    4eb0e7bb-b973-419e-bb74-8725fe230016.jpg e3bbedbe-40b9-4f07-b4a9-6510d772da05.jpg 8891d83d-c48d-406b-86d8-f9bfc60cd7e8.jpg d4af6feb-cbb3-41ff-aafd-cf49ecbf33ec.jpg a4d8e95f-c4ed-4c83-92bd-7280df1fa126.jpg
     
  2. komokwa

    komokwa The Truth is out there...!

    the ring is an add on , & nothing to do with the pendant ...

    bottom rim of left frame..... do I see a square stamp mark ????
     
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  3. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    I don't believe so, I actually thought it was dirt but when I looked through my loupe, it appears to be a little gap to pop up the inner frame to put photos in (although I've been unsuccessful doing that so far!)
     
  4. komokwa

    komokwa The Truth is out there...!

    below that to the right....
     
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  5. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Ah right, no sadly not.
     
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  6. mirana

    mirana Well-Known Member

    Not an expert!

    The rims look a bit thinner and the inserts a little different than the ones I've seen for my late 19th c lockets. So I'd guess early 20th personally, but could be late 19th. Plastic doesn't surprise me since they had it by then.

    "For regular Victorian citizens, buckles were associated with loyalty, fidelity, and strength. It also represented the joining of two people." (Source)

    Can't help in the gold question because I've had it myself so I wait for expert opinions! The gold sometimes gets black though....yeppppp. I've gotten many a great deal from people that don't realize old gold can tarnish and get dirty.
     
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  7. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    Anything short of 24k can tarnish with the right, or wrong, exposure. Raw onion is known for it, and I just saw one ring on Fartbook that went into a chlorinated pool. Did a number on the 10k ring. This does look like gold-filled on the inside, but knowing Edwardians (best guess) nothing would surprise me.
     
  8. shamster

    shamster Well-Known Member

    How did you test it? Scratch test and KEE tester can be fooled by thick gold plating, so you might want a XRF test for sure, since this is a heavy piece.

    Also weight might not be the best indicator. This locket I have which I know is gilt metal, also weighs 23g and is of similar size. But real gold tends to be made thinner, so if you feel your locket is hollow beneath the thin outer shell then it might be gold given the weight (excluding the glass too) 17073b39e38c5b2c4499e4288ecf0716.jpeg
     
  9. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Love the locket. Buckle jewellery was popular in the 19th century, but given the plastic inserts I would think this one is early 20th.
    My guess is gold plated. Probably not gold filled, which is a specific technique where a layer of gold is bonded under pressure to a layer of base metal.
    As shamster said, XRF testing will give you certainty.

    The rose gold clasp looks gold to me. It has no business being there but it is a nice bonus which can be used on something else.
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2025
  10. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Thank you! Yes I acid tested it. I wish I had better access to somewhere with an xrf machine. I can't seem to find too many around!
     
  11. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Thanks for your replies everyone! I'll see if I can track down somewhere with an xrf machine!
     
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  12. cfh

    cfh Well-Known Member

    I don’t have access to an xrf machine. I just use acid. I have found if you find a small sharp edge in a less noticeable spot and scratch a few lines it will tell if the item is plated. It does only a tiny bit of damage if you do it right. The acid on the last line will dissolve more than on your first line.

    The first picture I did three lines just to be safe, because I could not find a mark on the piece. It is 14k solid. IMG_7498-compressed.jpeg IMG_7595-compressed.jpeg The second picture was from a piece that was marked plated. It only took two lines to start to wear through the plating.
     
  13. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Oh, OK I'll try this and maybe post a pic and see what you think thank you!
     
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  14. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Ok, first pic is bail scratched 3x times then locket 3x times. Second pic is locket scratched again 4x times for good measure. I also re-weighed and its 20g.
    Messenger_creation_FBD40204-E002-4705-A817-097FDAEFBC28.jpeg Messenger_creation_6D5F5DBE-3E43-45EC-85FA-2E0F47721E0E.jpeg
     
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  15. cfh

    cfh Well-Known Member

    That looks good to me. I would guess that is solid.
     
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  16. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Fingers crossed! Thanks for the help.
     
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  17. Elen Beattie

    Elen Beattie Well-Known Member

    Just a follow up on this one- it is 14K rose gold with a heavy 18K plating. I sent it off to an auction house to confirm :)
     
  18. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Thank you for letting us know.:)
     
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  19. komokwa

    komokwa The Truth is out there...!

    hummm, I've never heard of plating gold...with more gold..??:confused:
     
  20. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    It's not common, for certain. I've never run across it either, but you never know what an old jeweler might have thought up.
     
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