Help identify type of vintage needlework - tatting?

Aloha,

This is a large, bed-sized decorative openwork piece that was created by my great-grandmother, late 1800's. I believe it is tatting? But I have exactly zero experience with any needlework beyond digging out a splinter. It is quite large which seems to be unusual for tatting, so just trying to confirm that. If anyone can identify the actual pattern, that would be great info to acquire as well.

Mahalo for looking, and all efforts greatly appreciated!

 

Looks like crochet to me, not tatting.
There appears to be quite a lot of breaks but, nevertheless, it's so nice to have a family heirloom!
It also appears to be an odd shape...?

 

Welcome, @808Beachbum. It does not look like crochet to me. I will tag our specialist in various types of needlework, who I think will be able to name the technique - @Northern Lights Lodge. I don't know how quickly she will be able to respond, so please be patient.

 

I believe that is called tatting. My grandmother (gone about 40 yrs now), used to sit and crank these out at an incredible pace. It was almost like watching something come out of a printer . They covered arms on the sofa etc etc.

 

Aloha! @808Beachbum
Wow! Delightful!

Hmmm... let me see. From what I can see... it is a form of "NETTED" lace and it "looks" like it is made of silk or an early rayon - guessed due to color and sheen, which could be just lighting. Early rayon, was used world wide in the early 1900's as an inexpensive silk, and does tend to have the same color, feel and sheen. An easy test could be done to determine fiber content. If it IS silk or rayon - I would not use any bleach product on it to lighten it....well, actually not on any fine lace...but particularly silk or rayon.

Netting was initially created by knotting the "net" and early on (for centuries) until modern day has been used for fishing nets. As early as the late 1500's, ladies began "darning" a finer net to create designs. Was your Great-Grandmother a native of Hawaii... or an area known for fishing? It would make sense that "netted laces" would have developed in that area.

Netting was created by using a double ended "shuttle", on which the thread or fiber would have been wound. It was also necessary to have a "netting gauge" which would have ensured that the squares of the net were consistent.

If you refer to my first "Lace Lesson" on this thread - "Handmade filet lace vs machine made filet lace", I discuss the making more fully and show several examples.

If you examine your own piece, you should be able to notice the individual squares with a knot at each corner, as shown below: two connected squares (lines) with a knot at each corner (circles). Looking further: The entire knotted net "ground" is begun from a fixed, furthest corner and worked diagonally to the opposite corner of the entire piece.

Once the knotted net is constructed, it is stretched out on a large frame and the woven design is filled in, using a needle and thread. When you examine the woven part in the above photo, you can see the woven thread direction, blue representing one thread and red representing another. It is hard to tell from this photo, exactly how many weaver threads were used. It "looks" like the weaver thread is exchanged and one weaver thread goes out and another comes in... but I honestly can't tell from the photo. It would be typical for one weaver thread to be used. HOWEVER: If you refer back to the Lace Lesson example - the handmade lace example is woven horizontally - and yours appears to be woven on the diagonal. So, this is new to me.

That may indicate a variation that I'm unfamiliar with - a more local variation? I don't know. Moving on:

Once the entire design had been put in place with all the weaving and looping to make circles around or within squares and rosettes made, it would have been removed from the frame and then it appears that the outer edge was "hand button-hole stitched" around the complete perimeter to add stability. It is VERY possible that additional threads were run lengthwise along that edge and added within the buttonhole stitch to make a thicker, even more sturdy edge.

As for the purpose of the piece - I'm unable to make educated guess, unless I can see the piece in it's entirety (measurements too).

Overall, it looks like a pleasing piece. Unfortunately, I do see some broken threads - it is possible to repair/stabilize them... but not easy. IF the loose ends are already backed up with a knot, they may not unravel any further.

If you send a photo or two of the entire piece I may have some additional thoughts to share.

Well, FUN!! Thank you for sharing! I hope this shines a little light on your piece! It looks like it is worth of care as a family heirloom!

Sincerely,
Cheerio!
Leslie

 

Great info! I'm originally from the Midwest, with the Great-Grandparents families from Germany, Norway, and England...no Hawaiian influences at all.
The piece is quite large, I will lay it out on my bed today or tomorrow and take additional pics.

I did notice the broken threads in the photo; when I lay it out I will look it all over a little closer. I know there are no large areas coming apart or anything like that. Good to know it might be easily (?) repairable.

The material is quite different from all of the other crocheted and embroidered pieces in the collection. This is notably stiffer and definitely a tan or light brown, consistent, color. Offhand I don't know when Rayon first appeared, but I am fairly confident this piece was created long before. There are no other pieces similar in color or texture in the collection. It was Old when I first remember Mom putting it on her bed for the Holidays 60 years ago. The person that supposedly made it was 90 when she passed the year I was born.

I greatly appreciate the info provided, and look forward to anything additional once I post further pics.

 

Hi again @808Beachbum,
Thanks for the new bits of info. Perhaps it is Norwegian in origin??
Ok... if it is stiffer fiber and a tan/light brown and consistent in color, then I'd vote for linen. The Scandi countries used a lot of linen. It generally wears very well and can have a good weight. It often has a sheen. If Mom put it on her bed... perhaps she knew it was a bed decoration?? Probably one of the hardest things re: repair is finding the right weight, color and like fiber. But we can discuss that later!
I'll look forward to the additional photos!
Cheero,
Leslie

 

@Northern Lights Lodge , here are additional pics. It is approximately 81 inches square at the wider points, except the two extended corners which hang about an extra 5 - 6 inches downward. They actually dress the normal corner fold area of the heavy blanket it is placed over. It is on a "Full" sized bed. You can see by the largest square pattern that it is off center of the bed, with significantly more hanging down on the side that I did not photograph. There are a few other minor broken threads, but overall pretty minimal to my mind. I will look into finding someone here that might be able to make appropriate repairs.

 

@808Beachbum,

Well, how fun is that! Yes, it does look like a decorative bed cover. But are you telling me that the two corners hang down on the foot end and the large diamond is still off center?? Hmmm... and it isn't that the 2 hang down corners are on opposite corners OR both on the longer or shorter side of the diamond?? That is very interesting. If the wider part of the side is on - say the "top" of the cover which would go over pillows - that makes some sense. But if the hang down parts aren't on the opposite (short) side of the diamond... Hmmm?? I'm baffled.

I can see there are some additional breaks, and some stains. Since the stains look almost like grease, you might want to address that also.

Before starting repairs - really examine the broken spots and see how much is going to easily unravel. In as much as it is netted - using knots... it may be fairly well anchored. In which case, you might not need to worry about repairs unless you want to cosmetically correct the issues. If it is going to unravel, you need to find a way to stabilize the area.

I'm not sure what to tell you in re: to repair... aside from finding the proper fiber will be a challenge. It would be best to find someone who would be able to do hand work on it, trying to fill in by match up knots and fibers and making new stitches in the voids (probably impossible). The next best thing might be to find someone who can back the damaged areas with fine netting and just hand stitch around the damaged areas and then trim back the netting. This will undoubtedly show - unless they back the entire piece (in which case they could use a fine similar color netting or fabric - suggest prewashing fabric) - and in which case they should also stitch around the largest design elements and the edge...big job.

And the chicken and the egg... is it better to launder first or repair first?? IF the broken threads are anchored, or you just use fiber and replace broken bars - or if you use netting and stitch around the broken areas... laundering first might be an option. If you are going to back the entire piece, then laundering it second might work best. It will be a case of weighing the pros and cons of each.

The stains might be easier if they are tackled individually without backing. In that case, I wouldn't suggest getting the entire piece wet. It would cause too much stress on the lace. If working on individual stains - I'd get it spread out on a table with towels under the spots and work on a few of the stains at a time. Sudsy, lukewarm water - perhaps woolite (or archival textile soap - Orvis is one) to start. Don't RUB! Sponge by dabbing and rinse the same way. After that side is very dry, you could flip it and attack the underside - repeat as needed.

If you get the stains out to a reasonable level and you have done necessary repairs and feel that you want to wash the entire piece.... use a bathtub or laundry sink and do NOT lift the wet lace, no matter if it is backed or not! When you need to change the water - just move textile out of the way, drain and refill. Repeat as necessary with a gentle soap and rinse repeatedly. Let it drain in place and you can gently press down with your hands; but let water drain without lifting it. Once most of the water has drained, then roll it up in a thick towel (but don't lift without supporting the underside to place on the towel). Once in the towel, you can gently press water out that way / change towels as necessary. If you have a large flat surface on which to spread it out over towels or a sheet (if it is dry enough), a sheet works well to "finger press" the edges and corners.

This won't be a quick job... take your time! I have always felt with repairs and alterations, that things should be done as invisibly as possible- but also in a manner which "could" be easily removed if needs be. If it is going to show - which it very well may, then I try to make the repair complimentary to the piece.

I know it sounds daunting. Take it one step at a time. If it is linen, and it doesn't have "dry rot"... is a very sturdy fiber!

Good luck! Write back if you have any questions!
Would love to see how it turns out! Enjoy the great family piece!

Cheerio, Leslie

 

I was being lazy/cautious when I spread it out on the bed, it is oriented properly, just that I did not accurately center it on the bed, or properly butt it up to the headboard. By myself, I did not want to be pulling and shifting any more than necessary to get it reasonably positioned to take some pics. If I had started at the headboard, and centered the large square, it would have had about 12 inches overhang on left, right and foot of bed. The two longer, rectangular corner pieces are both at the foot, with none at the top.

Much Mahalo for all the detailed cleaning and repair info, I will see if I can find someone here, or include your advice in a note accompanying the piece.

So, what category of needlework does this fit? Is it simply "Netted Lace"? Or is there a more accurate description that would better inform?

 

Oh, I think you thought right by being lazy/cautious when spreading it out! I apparently misunderstood! Ok, so it does indeed sound like a bed cover!

Hmmm... I think I'd have to keep it in the Netted Lace category. Although if I had to divide lace up into the large groups of Machine made, Hand Bobbin Lace or Hand Needle Lace - I'd have to put it in the Needle Lace category as it does have hand needle woven areas in the design.

I feel that it was just a form that wasn't broadly done, so it kind of falls into it's own category. Sometimes it is hard to pigeonhole needlework (ie lace), as sometimes it has crossover elements from other forms or areas which make it unique or at the very least, not widely known or worked.

Good idea to add a note to accompany the piece... especially for posterity!
Cheerio, Leslie