Featured Brooch - costume or precious?

Discussion in 'Jewelry' started by smallaxe, May 26, 2020.

  1. smallaxe

    smallaxe Well-Known Member

    Another inherited piece, but one with zero information attached. I know that there's a limit to what can be told from photos, but you folks here are so clever and knowledgeable. I have a few questions about this. Is it likely to be costume or precious (I'm leaning toward precious)? Any ideas on time period (if I guessed, I'd say 1950's or 60's)? What country (owner was American, and "7" stamp is American style, so I'm guessing America)? Is Hertz the retailer or maker?
    It appears to be gold, but no mark designating that. Above the gold, the stones are set in a different silver colored metal. The only markings I can find are "Hertz" on the pin, and the number 5527 (I think - first two numbers not fully stamped) on the back. There are a number of "Hertz" names associated with jewelry, and I'm not sure which of them are connected to this. Any info on this welcome.
    MBrooch3.jpg
    MBrooch1.jpg MBrooch2.jpg
     
  2. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    I am leaning toward fine jewellery based on how well & solidly built it is, how free of any discoloration, & the fire in the stones. Cubic zirconia might photograph like that, but I don't think that's what the stones are. That is an older style clasp (careful: some of them come open too easily) so think it's pre-60s. We'll see what others say.
     
  3. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    Wondering if the pearl is an addition. Workmanship not the same as the rest of the piece. Or maybe not; depends on which photo I look at. I love it, BTW.
     
  4. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    Have you tested the pearl on your teeth to see if it is genuine?
     
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  5. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    The bicolor mounts for the stones also strike me as something a costume designer would not bother with. The white metal sets off the stones.
     
  6. smallaxe

    smallaxe Well-Known Member

    I've never done the tooth test, so not experienced enough to tell. Under magnification, the surface is not perfectly smooth. There are small lumps and irregularities. It appears that the pearl fell out at some point and was unprofessionally glued back in.
     
  7. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    The tooth test is not a big deal & will confirm what you are seeing under magnification. I sort of nibble at them with the edges of my front teeth. Real pearls, no matter how smooth to the fingertips, will have a gritty, grainy feel. Artificial pearls will be slick & glassy. Try it with pearls you know are real & artificial & you will see that your teeth have no difficulty in telling them apart.
     
  8. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    You had to post this when Hertz car rental was declaring bankruptcy, didn't you? I haven't tried searching, but I can just imagine.
     
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  9. clutteredcloset49

    clutteredcloset49 Well-Known Member

    I'm inclined to think that this is early 1900s.
    Crescent moon shaped jewelry was very popular.

    Rub you tooth lightly over the pearl, it will feel like sand paper if it is real. I suspect it is 9K gold with white gold setting, and diamonds. You should take it to a jeweler for confirmation.
    9k was a popular gold content used for jewelry. It did not have to be marked for purity.
     
  10. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

  11. smallaxe

    smallaxe Well-Known Member

    The pearl feels kind of rough on the tooth. Not exactly like sandpaper, but definitely not like glass. I now think it's likely a real pearl. For the family this is from, if it's after the 1940's costume or real jewelry are both possibilities, but before 1940's they were wealthy enough (and before 1910, famously wealthy) to acquire very nice things.
     
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  12. smallaxe

    smallaxe Well-Known Member

  13. Hollyblue

    Hollyblue Well-Known Member

    The photo is out of focus on the front side and the piece appears to have grime around the stones.It does not look like the "beads" hold the stones in place.
     
  14. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    This is pre-WWII.
     
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  15. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    If you still thought this after seeing a sharper pic, would you have a recommendation for smallaxe?
     
  16. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    It is very pretty, smallaxe. Good quality too.
    I agree, the photos are a bit blurry in places, mine usually are too.:shame: Could you tell me, is there silvery foil on the backs of the clear stones? That's what it looks like to me.:confused:
     
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  17. smallaxe

    smallaxe Well-Known Member

    @Hollyblue - It's hard to get a photo close enough to show that. Maybe this one will help. The little beads/posts on the inside ring especially, appear under a loop to have been individually tapped with a tool. Is that to bulge the metal to hold the stone?
    @Any Jewelry - no, there is no foil on the back of the stones.
    MBrooch4.jpg
     
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  18. Ownedbybear

    Ownedbybear Well-Known Member

    That looks early twentieth to me - not later than just after WW1. And I'd not be ata ll surprised if the stones were real.
     
  19. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    Same here. That funky clasp disappeared after WWI. I'd have this tested; if the stones are diamonds or another white rock odds are the gold is real too.
     
  20. smallaxe

    smallaxe Well-Known Member

    I'm impressed you all can tell so much from the clasp, which is not even clearly shown in the photos. It just looks like a regular old clasp to me, but I know nothing. Does this photo confirm what's being said about what the clasp says about the age?
    MBrooch5.jpg
     
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