Hand Made & Machine Made Lace Trim Hankies

Discussion in 'Textiles, Needle Arts, Clothing' started by Curioser, Jun 22, 2020.

  1. Curioser

    Curioser Well-Known Member

    So, I have to admit I haven't read all of the great tutorials from @NorthernLightsLodge.
    Had a basement flood 2 weeks ago. Been trying to deal with wet, damp and moldy stuff, mostly business stock (not personal items). I found some old lace hankies and figured it's a decent time for a break from the heartache of seeing ruined vintage clothes, textiles, and ephemera.
    I took some pics of several different styles. I thought at first those in the first pic were both machine-made but a quick look at lesson#17 and I realize just because there is netting present doesn't mean the laces were not hand-finished.

    I thought the other hankies in photos #2 and 3 were hand-made. Was I right? Thanks for your insights, all!
     
    Figtree3 and Any Jewelry like this.
  2. Curioser

    Curioser Well-Known Member

    Oops! All my pics were too big, had to resize...
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Aquitaine

    Aquitaine Is What It IS! But NEVER BORED!

    In the future, best to remember to click on the VERY TOP IMAGE, once images are loaded, the one that says to: INSERT EVERY IMAGE AS A FULL IMAGE, please!! Thanks.....I've got it this time!!! Easier on everyone's eyes!!:):)

    Lace_hankies_1d.jpg
    Lace_hankies_2a.jpg
    Lace_hankies_3a.jpg
     
    Figtree3 and Any Jewelry like this.
  4. Figtree3

    Figtree3 What would you do if you weren't afraid?

  5. Northern Lights Lodge

    Northern Lights Lodge Well-Known Member

    Hi @Curioser,
    Sorry, just found these this afternoon. I've been busy turning out a few things myself. I'm so sorry about your flood! I hope you are able to salvage some things!
    Ok...on to lace:
    Photo #1. Top one - is machine "Schleffli" lace...
    Bottom one - is indeed also hand done - probably Swiss? But made to look like a Carrickmacross Irish "organdie applied to netting" style lace.

    Photo #2 and #3 - all are hand made bobbin lace! :)
    Photo #2. The top one on the left and the bottom one are "Torchon" - the left being a very "typical" pattern; and the bottom one a much more complicated wider piece; and features LOTS of "spiders". Torchon "typically" is very geometric in design.

    The one on the top right is a "Bedsfordshire" / "Beds" style bobbin lace. It features those "openwork diamond" patterns and the diamond and the fan has an outline cordonnet; typical of Bed's style laces.

    Photo #3. The upper is probably still classified as a "Torchon lace" although it does have that wavy tape (rather than geometric)... but the fans are truly Torchon.

    The lower one has the typical "picket fence" edge, very commonly found on Bedsfordshire/Beds laces and although a very simple design with only a few simple elements; is really very effective! It does sport just a tiny bit of cordonnet in the fancy serpentine bit around the 4 elongated tallies (that make the cross shape).

    All laces in these three photos share one thing in common. Non-mitered corners (meaning cut and sewn into a 90 degree corner).

    Photo #1 handkerchiefs were made on machines - to be handkerchiefs...(not yardage).
    The Schleffli - embroidered onto cheesy fabric in the shape of a square and then dropped into acid to remove the cheesy fabric and then the lace, sewn onto the handkerchief fabric. The second; was all just embroidered in one piece and then sewn by machine onto the linen.

    Had the laces in photos #2&3 been machine lace "yardage"; they probably would have been cut and sewn into 90 degree turns. Because they were designed to "be" handkerchiefs; the lace itself is designed to be mitered to turn the corner.

    Lovely examples! They would probably all hand wash up ok. I like using woolite. Rinse well. And again. Don't scrub. I would probably put all in a lingerie bag for laundering. Then pat out water between towels. When they are damp dry; after removing water... I, myself, would lay them out on a glass (if possible) surface and finger press flat. If you REALLLLLLLLY want that "picket fence" or edge to pop.... then I'd mark off squares on styrofoam or cardboard and pin the picot holes (or winkie pin holes) along the outside edge.

    Winkie pin holes are along the edges of the fan; where as, they are more of just an enlarged hole - rather than a "picot".

    Have fun! Hope that all helps!
    Cheerio,
    Leslie
     
    acvintage and Figtree3 like this.
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