Featured Hermes Tortoise shell and ivory Cameo

Discussion in 'Jewelry' started by Simona Buhus, Dec 18, 2021.

  1. Simona Buhus

    Simona Buhus Well-Known Member

    Hi again,
    Now the children are off for holidays, I don’t have to worry about the school runs, and have a little time to share the latest delights I’ve purchased.
    Moving on to the next saucy cameo of Hermes.
    I have been told that it’s tortoise shell and ivory on 925 Sterling silver frame not hallmarked.
    I wonder what are your thought, as I did not stick a hot pin in this one @Any Jewelry
    It looks to me as tortoise shell, has few scratches on the back and I think it has a stress line. The carving is fixed into place with two screws, so it looks like.
    In UV light the tortoise shell shines patchy green on the back, please see photos. The ivory shines white yellowish .
    What do you think about the age, material and we will wait for @Bronwen to delight us with the depiction of the character.
    Thank you.
    Kind regards,
    Simona
    Please tag anyone Intrested, keep forgetting the IDs
    @KSW
    @Ownedbybear
    @moreotherstuff
    944F45C8-0DB7-4A8C-BF68-7EAC4C6B68D8.jpeg 0345A552-5D51-49FE-89B3-F3194739E32C.jpeg 82E00CDF-C05C-47DA-B06C-8568AF0E6AC0.jpeg 96BFCF94-F55B-4870-9D9F-CB19E0E1CF46.jpeg 2D951FAE-75FB-450A-8DA0-01B7DEEEBFD2.jpeg 1162AFF3-AEED-45CC-A852-FAC0AD589B82.jpeg
     
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  2. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Very nice Simona, unusual too. I love the combination of materials. The strong linear shapes of the carving remind me of Art Deco, but I will leave dating to Bronwen.
    My heart thanks you for saving it from an attack.:joyful::happy:
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2021
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  3. antidiem

    antidiem Well-Known Member

    Hi Simona, where did you find this cameo please? :)

    The carving shape reminds me of Art Deco too, AJ.
     
  4. Simona Buhus

    Simona Buhus Well-Known Member

    I have purchased it from a private seller. I tell him what I am looking for and he finds things for me. He had a shop in Portobello road, London, he told me.
     
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  5. Marie Forjan

    Marie Forjan Well-Known Member

    Me three! I love this one :)
     
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  6. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    Does appear to be ivory on tortoiseshell. I would date to late 19th - early 20th. The figure is actually Perseus, after the sculpture by Canova, a fairly popular subject.

    Perseus Canova sculpture head.jpg


    See: CAMEOS: Show & Tell or Ask & Answer

    An unusual piece. Suspect many cameos using tortoiseshell have not survived due to fragile nature of material.
     
  7. antidiem

    antidiem Well-Known Member

    nice! :)
     
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  8. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    Pretty sweet!
     
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  9. Simona Buhus

    Simona Buhus Well-Known Member

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  10. Ownedbybear

    Ownedbybear Well-Known Member

    That back looks right for late 19th into early 20th.
     
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  11. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    They must only have had those cases available. That seriously deco image in the frilly, prissy case looks a little odd but oh well. It kept the tortoiseshell intact.
     
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  12. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    The synopsis does not mention that the winged horse Pegasus, plus another beast called Chrysaor, sprang from the neck of the decapitated Gorgon. Athena not only gets the head, she is also the first to tame Pegasus, so you often see him on her helmet.

    I was told by one of the Met's staff that they have a spare head of Medusa just in case the one there now falls down.
     
  13. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    A Deco sensibility? Or the lack of the skill/effort to do the more subtle curves?

    Reverchon Perseus 3A.jpg

    My dating of the cameo is based on the findings & the materials used, not on anything stylistic, which I considered unreliable.
     
  14. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    I think the OP's is legitimate 1920s Deco.
     
  15. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    Could be, no way to know for certain. Carver may also have been influenced in his strokes by the natural grain of the material.

    Think we can agree this one is Deco:

    tortoiseshell A front.jpg

    It has an interesting back. Elizabeth did not ascend the throne until 1952, so doubt ER is for Elizabeth Regina.

    tortoiseshell A back.jpg
     
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  16. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    Probably the original owner's initials. It might even be her face.
     
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  17. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    She's not wearing a necklace, is she? Those beads are hanging from her ears, looks like.
     
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  18. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    It's supposed to be some sort of headress thingie.
     
  19. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    @Simona Buhus You have written elsewhere that you have begun buying jewellery as an investment. I would not advise putting too much money in buying similar pieces if you come across them, unless the carving is outstanding. It is increasingly difficult to sell legally both ivory & tortoiseshell, doubt the regulations will be any looser by the time you are thinking of selling. The unlikely possibility I am hoping for is that they will begin to allow age to be recognized without written provenance. Think in the US it is not legal to sell tortoiseshell at all, even if you have provenance going back to Adam.
     
  20. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    The antique tortoise market has gone back room, cash only.(LOL) Not a good investment vehicle for sure.
     
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