How to care for brittle dry wood and splints?

For those that haven't read my introduction post.. I am a total newbie to antiques to which I may have picked up pieces over the years only if I liked them. I rarely know what they are other than; a chair is a chair, a basket is a basket, and so on. It really doesn't matter the value or age.. it just matters if it will look good in my house.

So, last year I found a chair that is all wood with a splint seat. It is so very dry and brittle! It wiggles at all the joints, and it looks like someone tried to "fix" some joints with a few nails here and there. I read here on the forum, to put water on the piece, oil it, and then wax it. My question is, what oil should I use, and is there any particular wax that should be used? Also, can I do the same things to some of my brittle baskets?

Any help would greatly be appreciated. I love my simple little chair!

PS - I would love to learn what type of chair this is... possibly shaker? Any ideas?

 

Beeswax, sparingly, on the wood. No water, no oil, just a wipe over with a damp cloth - an old soft towel works - then wax. Give it a good brush outside first.

Baskets, I'd use a bit of olive oil or vegetable oil, again very sparingly and after brushing them.

 

Chair aside, I love your fireplace décor, and the way everything seems to belong together. You must have a beautiful home.

 

Hi,
I agree with OBB except I use mineral oil. I have had veggie oil and olive oil go rancid at least it had an odor. Never had a problem with mineral oil.
greg

 

A lot of what you do depends on how you want it to look when you are done.
If you want to preserve the way it is now.

Mineral oil will not add color. Beeswax is a light coating of wax and will need to be repeated periodically.

If it were mine,
I would wash with a mild soapy water and let dry very well.
I would then use Howards Restor a Finish or Watco oil stain to add a fruitwood color. (I like cherry)
If you want a heavier protection you could put a sealer on prior to waxing.
I would then use a paste wax to give the wood more protection.
Beeswax is nice but provides a lighter coating.

As for the seat. It is in rough shape. You can either redo it. Or paint it. Me personally, I would paint it.

Please be advised, I am not an expert in furniture. What I do is not what others would do.

So wait for the pros and cons of what I have said.

 

Double boiled linseed oil is a favorite of mine.

I was told a long time ago never to use food oils, as overtime they can draw critters, or spoil.

Bees wax is as natural as you can get and won't harm anything.......but it's up to you as what kind of finishing look you want to end up having..!

 

One might also add a seat cushion in a period style. My grandmother had some chairs like yours and they had gingham seats.

 

Not Shaker but similar in style to what they did. Does seem to have some age but I think 20th century in origin. As you can see from the responses, there are various approaches to wood conservation or restoration. While using water to clean or swell the wood, might have some beneficial affect, it will also raise the grain on the wood if it does not have a good finish on it to begin with. I would hesitate to recommend this approach.

The only way to really fix loose joints is to remove any nails, take them apart, clean off old glue, re-glue, and clamp til dry. You might have some success by injecting glue into the joints and clamping but success is not guaranteed. Some cyanoacrylate glues may work better in this manner but I have not personally tried them.

As far as the dry splints in the seat, oiling will be beneficial. There are various oils that will work. One good product that is readily available is Watco Danish Oil. It is thin enough that it will penetrate and provides a protective finish if you apply it in multiple coats. It also comes in colors if you want to add some stain. There are other similar products available or you can make your own. If you use some of the other oils, make sure that they are thin enough to penetrate the wood in the first couple coats. Oils based products can be thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine if necessary.

When making my own oil based products, I prefer tung oil or a mixture that includes it. Heavier oils and waxes will serve better as a top coat or finish. Straight tung oil will work in this manner as well. It does have a relatively long dry time, as do most oils, so there may be better alternatives for a top finish.

 

as yes....I forgot about good ol tung oil !!! Good call Brad !

 

How very nice of you to say, thank you! I try to decorate the house in a way that friends and family are comfy when walk in, and aren't afraid to pull up a chair and make themselves to home. The fireplace is my favorite part of the house.

 

Thank you all for the helpful tips! When I figure out which method to use, and "doctor" it up a bit, I will post a picture.

 

I desparately need to repair a recent water spill on my 1967 WHITE FURNITURE CO dining room table. I don't know where to begin. Please help !

 

Walnuts. I kid you not. Get some in the shells, crack them in half, and rub the flesh on the water stain. Absolutely magic on it. Cigarette ash also works, or so my ma claimed.

 

Hi,
Put a dab of mayonnaise on a rag and rub it in. It should disappear in a matter of minutes.
greg

 

Mayo & nuts..........I'm getting hungry here !!

 

Hi,
If it was me I use straight ammonia put on a rag and wave it closely at the water stain. Do not touch it but get close. Stain should disappear in seconds. Mayo is slower but good for beginners.
greg