Featured I confess I am a lace Junkie

And I didn't even realize it until I needed to move the last of my "collections" to a new location. I have certain things I buy when I see them and then put them in like boxes and never look back. I had no idea I had four storage boxes of linens and lace collected over the last 25 years. It is now time to sell all but a few. But I know very little about my collection. I read through all Northernlights tutorials which were helpful...Here are the first few...

 

Geez photos look terrible I will try to do better.

 

ok

 

5-7

 

Hi @trip98
Oh, goodie goodie! Another lace junkie! LOL... I hadn't thought of myself as such! LOL... it fits!

Ok, down to business!
#1 - I "adore" that collar! I've seen pieces constructed like this before - including a wedding dress I once owned. It was from the 50's... your collar is older. Probably 1st half of the 1900's. The wedding gown had little bits of cotton stuffed under the flower petals to give them dimension...and I wouldn't be surprised if they daubed a bit of perfume on the cotton either! FUN piece!

#2 - Probably crochet... not 100% = as the pic is slightly blurry from my end. Hand done; very pretty pattern!

#3 - 99% certain it is machine Bruges... again; the pic is slightly blurry from my end. It is very nice! What is the design? Applique? Lappet?

#4 - I'm REALLY pumped about this one. I definitely need a better close up; front AND back if you would. And perhaps a long shot of the entire piece - as flat as possible? What are the snaps for? Is it a collar? It "looks hand"...and it looks unusual! EVIL grin!

#5 - This one is pretty simple - even blurry! It is machine tape, appliqued on machine netting; with hand fagoting. Probably a Princess style tape lace. 1900's

#6 - Again - easy enough - even blurry. This one is a machine lace with a Bruges flair. Around the 30's.

#7 - Definitely darned net. I can't say for sure if it is hand done - sorry - blurry again. It would be unusual to have those raised leaves on machine; however, it is equally unusual to find that sort of placement of them. I'd have to see a clear close up to tell you one way or another. It looks circa 1910 to me.

That's all I can tell you with pics you provided. Glad to make more comments on better pics or new posts!

Thanks for sharing!

Cheerio,
Leslie
PS. probably not the best idea to keep in plastic bags - even the clear plastic tote is better than the bags. Invest in some acid free tissue (or even plain white tissue) for the pieces you wish to keep. Store in a cool, dry, non sun-shiney location...

 

Thank you for all your precious knowledge! Per your request I tried to take close-ups. When I reduce the pics so they will load to this site they become blurry. Here is another try
Close up of crochet collar.
#3 Set of three basted on to gauze
#4 large collar with snaps (most missing I think) around inner circle and one snap at the bottom front point. The snaps are close together as if to bunch up a create a pleat ruffle? Working on close-ups.

 

#7 Darned Net close-up
#6 Full photo

#4 Collar close-up backside with snap

 

Hi @trip98
My delight to access your pieces!

I just realized that I should apologize to everyone for NOT supplying source photos... I'll try to remedy that the next time I post.

#2 - Definitely hand crochet and really a sweet combo of stitches!

The next pic... cool. Apparently, they were appliques and only some were used! Pretty designs!

#7 - still having trouble seeing it clearly - BUT, I'm pretty sure that it is machine net. It seems to have clearly "raised" vertical threads in the motifs. IF it was hand made - the horizontals and verticals would be clearly "woven" - rather than one "atop" another. Another way to check... is feel the corners of each of the small squares of netting. IF they are hand done...you should be able to feel a small knot at each junction. Last but not least: those raised leaves. Look on the back side.... is there any sort of "running stitch" connecting each of those leaves? They just don't "feel" right to my eye.

#6 - I'm going to say that your piece is probably of Italian origin- I think we might even be able to consider it Milanese.

Although, it has many of the characteristics of these examples of Flemish (the top photo below and also plate 145D) circa late 1800's. The looping tapes are present in both examples; but there is a hand worked "net" or "ground" that connects the tapes in both examples and your piece has only "bars" or "bridges" that connect the tapes.


In the center plate - 25B (below)... I think this is a better example and closer match. This one has the looping tapes and a sort of mushed bud which seems to be absent in your example; but more importantly, has connecting "bars" or "bridges" rather than a ground.

As for the date...I will revise yours to 1860-1880's. Although "possible" for it to date much older. If it is; the evidence would be that it has "cannibalized" - meaning that it was "cut and re-attached into the Bertha shape". I've had several lovely collars, that on careful examination revealed that they had been an earlier shape; and refitted to adapt to a more modern shape. Or it could have been an earlier flounce. But, I don't see any evidence of those things from the pics. It "LOOKS" like it was made to start at one end of the collar and end at the other end of the collar. If it was previously a flounce; it would probably be cut along those end edges. So, you'd have to do some careful looking to determine that.

I need to address the outer edge. Hand made bobbin again. It "looks" like it is part and parcel of the collar and not sewn on. If that is true, than the piece was definitely made AS a collar and not recycled or cannibalized from an older piece.

My other reason for choosing a more modern date than late 18th century is the design. If you examine the three examples - Both of the Flemish, and the Milanese examples - although all are based on the looping tape and have a fairly bold, clear pattern in all three examples; in my opinion, all three have given "space" to the loops, creating nice black and white areas....and have been well designed and executed.

At a distance; your piece has a definite design... however, it has the traits of pieces that were worked towards the end of the hand industry. Meaning, it was worked as quickly as possible. This is why the elements upon closer inspection; the tapes and hearts (elements) look rather "mushed", lack uniformity and lack clean, crisp edges.

It was probably designed quickly, and worked quickly. I believe it to be basically all one piece! No time to cut off tapes and end them; only to begin again. No time to add in threads for the back ground "netting" or "ground"... only time to pull a pair over from one tape, connect it to an adjoining tape, and then return to rejoin the original tape. As a lace maker; I can tell you this piece would have been relatively rapid to work.

See if you can follow one tape (can you locate the "start"? probably on one end of the collar and the other end on the other end of the collar) and see how far it loops and scrolls around... I believe it even includes the hearts. I'm surprised that the center's of the hearts contain the woven "point d'esprit" squares, as those are somewhat time consuming.

All that said: I think it is a very cool piece and is quite showy! Wouldn't it look grand over a bright contrasting blouse or sweater?

Snaps were invented in 1885. So they could be original to a Bertha of that date. Bertha's were wide - generally "off shoulder" collars and the snaps would have been necessary to affix it to the neckline.

If you are planning to keep the piece; I think I'd carefully remove the snaps - especially if they are rusty. If you are going to sell the piece then I'd leave as is.

Well, I hope that you are smiling! Truly a cool, fun piece! I wish I could positively date it to older; but... I am confident about it being from the 1860-1880's.

Thanks again for sharing!
I love the challenge of finding the "story" of laces... this one was fun!

Cheerio for now,
Leslie

 

Thank you. So helpful. I have more I may post later.

 

Oh do!
Leslie

 

Sorry it has taken me so long: Life got in the way!

The photo that has three pics across the top and has a bold 25. Italian bobbin laces is from “A dictionary of Lace” by Pat Earnshaw....

Plate 86:that says”Flounce, probably Flemish; early 18th c.” Is from the book “Lace- a guide to identification of old lace types and techniques” by Heather Toomer

And DANG ... I can't seem to find that 3rd plate! The one that says plate 145a b and c... I'm sorry. I don't know which book that came out of. In the future I'll try to post my sources. I was so excited about the research; I forgot to post the source! Too late too smart!

Cheerio,
Leslie