Kuna Mola Panel Figural

Discussion in 'Textiles, Needle Arts, Clothing' started by VintageAlways, Aug 17, 2020.

  1. VintageAlways

    VintageAlways Active Member

    Kuna Mola Panel Figural
    Measures 11 1/2” x 11 1/2.
    Beautiful cloth scene seems to depict a spiritual figure ascending to the heavens. I can’t find anything online exactly like it except in a museum. I’m not sure if this is older or newer, nor do I know the value. Help appreciated!!!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    It doesn't look like it was ever on a shirt, so I say not old. The subjects are usually personal to the maker, so you won't find one exactly like it.

    upload_2020-8-17_18-4-41.jpeg
     
  3. komokwa

    komokwa The Truth is out there...!

    it's nice though......kinda looks like Keith Haring..:happy::happy::happy::rolleyes:
     
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  4. 2manybooks

    2manybooks Well-Known Member

    Molas were originally made as part of women's traditional blouses, and are more usually rectangular in shape rather than square.
    Kuna mola.jpg
    https://fiberartscenter.com/mola/

    Some ways to evaluate molas are to look at how complex the work is. The design on yours is comparatively simple, with large blocks of color. Although the photo is too small to be sure, it looks like most of the work is applique - adding layers to the foundation - rather than "reverse applique". Although the Kuna use a variety of techniques, they are noted for using reverse applique, which is making a sandwich of different color fabrics and then cutting through the layers to expose the desired color. The edges of the cuts are carefully turned under and stitched down. This is a more delicate and time consuming process than adding layers on top. The amount of detail work, and the close spacing and evenness of the stitching, are criteria for quality.
     
  5. VintageAlways

    VintageAlways Active Member

    Is this picture better? Thank you for all info, I much appreciate it. I have another Mola that I’m going to post. It looks to me that it may be more like you are describing as reverse appliqué, possibly. It looks very intricate to me either way! What amazing and beautiful artwork!
     

    Attached Files:

  6. i need help

    i need help Moderator Moderator

  7. VintageAlways

    VintageAlways Active Member

    reader and i need help like this.
  8. i need help

    i need help Moderator Moderator

    You’re welcome, yes they are striking!
     
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  9. 2manybooks

    2manybooks Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the closeup. In their work, the Kuna use both regular applique (layering shapes one on top of the other) and reverse applique (layering different colors fabrics and cutting down to the desired color). It often can be difficult to distinguish the two techniques. In the portion you have shown here, the blue stripes running across the central figure are examples of the "reverse applique" technique. They have been cut through the black fabric to expose the blue underneath. In complex molas, there can be several layers of different colors, and designs are cut through to reveal shapes and borders of the various colors.

    Here is one from my collection that illustrates the different techniques quite well:
    mola - cat bird 1 (640x505).jpg

    A detail of the wing on the right shows reverse applique on the right, and additive applique on the left:
    mola - cat bird - wing detail 3 (640x480).jpg

    The series of small slits, in reverse applique, are also characteristic:
    mola - cet bird - foot detail 6 (640x480).jpg

    At the edge, you can see the layers of uncut fabric:
    mola - cat bird - back edge layers 7 (417x640).jpg

    Additional details are often added with embroidery:
    mola - cat bird - face detail 4 (640x480).jpg
     
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  10. reader

    reader Well-Known Member

    Question for 2manybooks (love yours) and AJ

    I always thought that if they weren’t rectangular they were definitely made strictly for tourist resale. Is that true? I’ve passed on many because of shape.
     
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  11. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    The genuine ones I've seen were all rectangular.
     
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  12. reader

    reader Well-Known Member

    BTW the shape of yours doesn’t mean that yours isn’t a wonderful colorful folkloric piece. I was only confirming shape as I’m interested in them as a historic object.
     
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  13. 2manybooks

    2manybooks Well-Known Member

    I must confess, most of what I have learned about molas relates to late 20th century examples. Googling for images of "mola blouses Panama" I see some sewn onto blouses that appear to be square. Styles can change. Probably best to consider a variety of criteria when selecting, most importantly - is it a pleasing design, well executed.
    There are a number of books about molas. One that I have found quite helpful is
    Yer Dailege! Kuna Women's Art, by Mari Lyn Salvador, published by the Maxwell Museum of Anthropology. She studied the way Kuna women evaluate each other's work - what they consider important in terms of design and technique. Who better to say what is a good mola or not?
     
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  14. VintageAlways

    VintageAlways Active Member

    Lots of good info here! Thank you for the detailed photos and descriptions! I love this art and the vibrant colors!
     
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