Featured Me again with another lace shawl-y thing

Discussion in 'Textiles, Needle Arts, Clothing' started by Starry, Jul 8, 2020.

  1. Starry

    Starry Hobbyist collector/walking disaster

    Up until a few hours ago I was sure this was a mourning piece, but a friend brought to my attention how much it looks like a Spanish mantilla and/or triangle chapel veil. I'm beginning to think that's what it is.

    It's very soft which makes me think it might be silk. At the moment I have no idea what it's for, how old it is, or anything - but it's just so pretty. It's a shame it's full of holes.

    Just wanted to share this beauty, and maybe see if anyone knows how it's made (@Northern Lights Lodge ?) or what it is.

    The longest side is about three feet long.

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  2. Northern Lights Lodge

    Northern Lights Lodge Well-Known Member

    Hi again @Starry ,
    Another delightful old piece! Yes, pity it is shredded! It is possible that it is silk - I can't tell from the photos. The black dyes were notorious for the acids eating away at the integrity of the fiber - no matter if it is cotton, linen, or silk!!

    Sadly, no saving the cancer of it; I've tried repairing such pieces and there is just nothing "solid" to attach repairs to. My guess is that it is circa late 1800's. It is machine made. Those long running stitches in the floral design are a dead give-away. But yes, due to the bold - very black, splashy floral pattern (rather than something with shading and more open and airy)... I do feel like it has a Spanish flavor. It still may be mourning; but I'd more inclined to say a church head covering...rather than a full mantilla.

    If you had any interest in trying to save it... my suggestions would be: either lay it out under glass or carefully cut out any motifs you might be able to salvage and frame under glass.

    The other possibility would perhaps give you some wear - but more work. Find some fine gauge tulle (not tutu netting)...but finer... black. Lay out this antique lace piece on top of a length of the tulle - large enough to back it completely. If necessary, pin it in a few key places - or lightly press it flat; using a damp pressing cloth between the lace and a warm iron - not too hot; you don't want to scorch it and LOL... you'll be able to smell the dye then...PeeUuu.

    Then lay another piece of black tulle over the top - to cover it completely. Remove pins from between layers as you go; but then pin the top layer to the lower 2 layers. Depending on how sure you are of your machine stitching skills - either baste around EACH of the design elements with black thread or baste with a longer sewing machine stitch. After going around the whole perimeter of the antique piece...you could probably leave a little seam allowance and then cut away any extra tulle and either zig zag or use seam binding along the outer edge. It would still remain very fragile; but it could be used as a head covering or wrap for an occasion or two.

    The chemical damage to this lace is truly unrepairable. It would probably disintegrate completely if you tried to wash it (even encased in the tulle).
    Therefore; if you can utilize it in any way; it is preferable to pitching it.

    Thanks for sharing.
    PS...if you do decide to encase in tulle... you'll have to let us know how it turns out!
    Cheerio,
    Leslie
     
  3. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    I was told the desintegration is due to oxidation of the iron content of the dye. A bit is like rust, so contact with water would indeed make things worse, not just because it is fragile, but iron and water....:eek::sorry:

    I have a black Chantilly lace fan that is still alive, but I have been anticipating the black lace disaster.:(
     
    kyratango, Starry and Christmasjoy like this.
  4. Starry

    Starry Hobbyist collector/walking disaster

    @Northern Lights Lodge @Any Jewelry

    I've never had a good example of black lace before for this exact reason. It's such a shame that chemical/metallic-dyed fabrics just seem to destroy themselves no matter what you do. I have a lot of salvaged motifs cut from destroyed black lace but this is my first "full" piece.

    I'm a little wary of trying to patch it up because it's scarily fragile and the last thing I want to do is make it worse. If it was really interesting or unique then I'd try harder to save it, but in the end, no matter how beautiful I personally find it, it's not the only piece of antique Spanish lace in the world. I'll probably end up cutting out the motifs. The big central one with the three flowers is salvageable and would look really pretty in a glass frame.
     
  5. Northern Lights Lodge

    Northern Lights Lodge Well-Known Member

    @Starry - I think that is a fine thing to do with it. I bet it will be stunning in a frame! Show us the finished piece! :)

    I have had both... some just dismal smelly pieces that are just shredded; and also I do have several nice black examples... you can check my Lace Lesson #6 and also Lace Lesson #15 to see a couple of them. You can tell by the feel of them that they are "compromised"... the large shawl is somewhat brittle. Still, it has a little life in it.

    Cheerio, Leslie
     
    Any Jewelry and Starry like this.
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