Featured What Material Was Used in This Cameo?

I bought this 14K gold-framed cameo a few days ago. There are no markings on it and I'm confident that the safety-clasp and bar mechanism is not original.
Perhaps the original C clasp was broken or did not provide enough security. The swivel bail is probably also new. I only tested the frame and it is 14K. (Yes, everything looks super clean--the jeweler loves to steam everything he gets!)

With no light behind the cameo, it has a lavender hue but the back looks like carnelian. The woman's portrait is pure white. Is the stone banded agate?

And is she a recognizable figure or just a pretty classical lady? I love her flower pendant on beads!

Thanks for your help!

 

2 separate pieces , both look like glass from here..

 

Perhaps there are two different materials but I doubt it. The portrait does not have a perfectly flat background yet it sits perfectly on the background. I have tested the materials with a Presidium gem tester. The background tests in the chalcedony range and the portrait in the quartz range. Both test above glass.

 

I see glue at the throat and below ....... but it could be the photo..

 

perhaps only made as a pendant..... the brooch attachment is , less than ideal !

 

@Bronwen
@mirana

 

Both originally; it looks like the pinback broke off or was replaced for safety. These were usually worn both ways when the bail folded down like this one does.

 

Yes, to @evelyb30 's point, many cameos originally were made with bails that could be swiveled out of sight as well as pins. I tested the materials again, both fall in the chalcedony range. So, ignore my earlier comment saying they tested differently.

 

I bet she's sard/sardonyx/striped onyx. It's a stone that has layers and if it's cut properly they can be carved back to make a hardstone cameo.

 

Oooh! Hadn't thought of that! I'll look into it, thanks!

 

Just beating the real cameo experts to it. If you really want the scoop, the real experts are on the cameo thread - @PepperAnna and @Bronwen .

 

@Curioser, on your SECOND image down- showing the back of the cameo, it looks like there 'MIGHT' be some printing on the back side of that pin, if you open it up.... it's fairly faint but contrasted a bit........maybe worth checking it out.....??? Or could it be on the cameo itself.....

OOOPS....sorry, accidentally posted what I copied BEFORE I contrasted it....here's
the contrasted 'pin area'.......

​

 

Hi! No, no printing. The pin only hinges about 75 degrees so I can't get fully under it but it's smooth. The area you are seeing under the pin is the support bar, not the cameo. And, I don't think the pin or the bar supporting it are original. Thanks for looking!

 

I agree, very likely sardonyx.

 

Agreed this is what is called by a variety of names.

Hardstone is the common seller term. It is Banded Agate, of which Onyx (white on black) and Sardonyx (white on red/brown/orange) are names for the color varieties. Agate is a form of Chalcedony. Keep in mind that these stones are all heat treated to increase their color and have been since ancient times. Carnelian is also a type of chalcedony.

You can tell that it's stone and not glass (besides testing it) by looking at the carving on the edges and sides. @Bronwen pointed out the method where you look for little white line reflections around the carving, showing a sort of carved curve around the finer areas; for example here near the curls on front or around the bust, when seen from above. You can then look at the side of the carving and see if some of the color background "bleeds" into the white... These color bands are usually quite thin and not even so a carver may go into the background to get height where it is lacking. If a carving has gaps at the edge or a sharp transition to surface, it's likely to be two pieces. Usually all glass but sometimes trimmed shell, plastic, etc. mounted on stone background.

Yes the clasp and hinge are replacements because of their little pad bases.

I would say her diadem and veil are common Juno attributes but she's been given some more details like a sort of Renaissance clothing vibe. I personally would call her a Juno since I think that was the intent/inspiration but others may disagree.

I think the style of the frame and carving are circa 1900, give or take a decade or bit in either direction.

She's very pretty. I hope you got a good deal and enjoy her!!

 

Thank you @Any Jewelry and @mirana ! So, banded agate, while not precise, was accurate. I did not know all chalcedony has been treated! Such clever old jewelers!

I'm not sure I understand the "white line reflections". You mean the white layer is reflected on the darker carnelian? Or, the carver hollowed out some area under the edges to give it more visual lift?

I appreciate the dating and Juno attribution. I'll research that more.

And, yes, I got a very good deal. The poor jeweler sold it to be as gold-filled since it was not marked and came with a matching color gold-filled chain--basically just charged me for the chain since he can't sell cameos. As they say, he made a rookie mistake!

 

Who said all chalcedony has been treated? Most of it was heat treated by volcanic heat.

 

Light reflection lines that are usually seen in photos around carved areas, and particularly in more delicate spots, from where the carving is sort of scooped or rounded around the edge.

Speaking of banded agate used in cameos. I've read it and watched youtube videos of the current carvers in Germany doing it and explaining the method to enhance the colors. Here's a clip of one. @Bronwen has also posted a sample of a dyed geode slice for anyone curious about what that might look like in natural vs treated. So I should not say a definitive all, but a cautious "don't be surprised that we enhance things."

 

Thanks for the explanation and edits on the photo. That's what I thought you meant, just wanted to be sure.