Featured More antique lace bits… Collars, lappet, hankie, etc

(I picked these up from the same sale where I got the black chantilly lace I posted about in this thread.)
For the most part, I thought I could tell the difference between machine made and handmade laces but these are so fine I’m questioning myself. I find the lappet especially interesting with the ends looking rather regal… A crown atop a five-rayed badge of some sort? (Not sure what to call it.)
Suggestions as to age, and lace types are very welcome as well as any other info that may be offered.
@Northern Lights Lodge

Item 1, a large collar:



Item 2, a smaller collar:



Item 3, a pointed collar:



More items in next post.

 

Item 4, the lappet:



Item 5, a hankie:



More items in next post.

 

Item 6, some straight trim with finished edges on each end:



And finally, item 7, some longer straight trim, also with each end finished:

 

BEAUTIFUL!!! And now, what to do with them!!! And I see you've already tagger Leslie!! Good, she'll be a good help! @bluumz, do you use them?

 

I’m afraid I just hoard them… with the idea of using or selling them “someday“!

 

Beautiful pieces!

 

Hmmm, I was googling around to try and find the significance of the image on the ends of the lappet and came across this...
The medals are described as "France, gold military decoration, Order of the Legion of Honor, Napoleon III (1852-70)". (Crimean War period.)
I think I've got a winner!
FRENCH LEGION OF HONOUR

 

Wow! I would have snapped it all up as well! The second and third one look to have some Battenburg lace tape techniques incorporated into them, plus a lot more I know nothing about.

 

For further reference:

 

@Northern Lights Lodge

 

Dang you DID clean up! Wowza! I'm envious! I didn't see these this morning! Ok... I need to catch my breath and then I'll respond to the pieces! Be back shortly!
Leslie

 

WoW! Now that I've taken a deep breath!
Photo #1 - That first piece is exceptional! It is a Bertha in terms of size and shape. Even from this long view it screams "quality". The detail in the ferns; the 3-D layering; the flowers! OH the flowers!! the shadowing and movement in those beautiful large flowers; balancing of design; workmanship... this was not made by a novice. Actually it was probably made by a large number of people!
Photo #2 (and 3)- Moving in closer. We can see that there are TWO types of lace here - in terms of construction. Bobbin lace and needle lace are utilized.

A: The large bottom flower - which is BEAUTIFULLY worked - is "needle lace". (Made with a needle and thread). It utilizes those padded circular eyelets around the center of the flower; and those wonderful layered petals... you "should" be able to actually slide your finger or a piece of paper between the layers (don't damage it in the process - but they are probably separate); those nice crisp edges defining the edge of the flower. All those large flowers around the edge and "maybe" the large daisy looking ones... can't tell without a close up... are all the same technique. These are elements found in Point de Gaze.

B: The rest of the lace in photo #2 is made using bobbin techniques. The raised work defining each leaf, those funny little circular "buds"... (and possibly the large daisy ones) are all bobbin techniques typically found in Belgian Duchesse.
Overall this piece may be called "Point de Gaze" or some may call it "Mixed Brussels". Both are probably accepted terms.

Age: Hmmm... harder for me to judge. The quality is exceptional as I said - so it would have had to be made within a time frame when this type of lace was still "reallllly" being made by serious lacemakers. The other consideration is the size and shape from a fashion standpoint; as it has a smaller neck opening rather than sitting on the shoulders with an open neck. I'm guessing somewhere mid-1800's to 1880.
Truly a beautiful and stunning piece. Take care storing this beauty. AND ... do you know anything of the provenance of these pieces? Was there a lot of lace at this sale or only a few pieces? Mostly curious here.

One last observation. This doesn't look as if it has ever been laundered. I don't think I would - especially because it doesn't particularly appear to "need" to be laundered.

Ok... I'll move on to the next piece in another post.
Wowza!
Leslie

 

Ok... Collar #2. A pleasing piece.

Photo #4. This collar is also considered a Bertha; due to size and shape. It is one of any number of names - but all based on mixing machine tape laces with hand applied fillings. Falling under a big umbrella called "Battenberg" they went by Princesse, Princess, Honiton, Duchesse and more.

Nearly the entire piece is fashioned with different kinds of openwork tapes... it is only the connecting bars, or fancywork stitches between the different types of tape that are hand applied.

In photo #5. The center diamond shape next to the ruler is hand "faggoting", another name for those fancy work stitches. The ovals that surround it are tape and that includes the four little "wheat ears" inside each oval.

Fanning out from the ovals are straight across bars which connect to another decorative tape... this one looks a bit like a ladder with tape on each side and then a bar connects the two sides.

Past that - toward the right side of the photo; there are lots of ovals with busy work in the center; again tapes. But the square mesh that connects the "ladder tape" and the ovals are again, hand "faggoting'.

Age: I'm giving this one a more modern date... maybe more like 1880-90.

Overall... a very nice piece for what it is.

On to the next item...

Leslie

 

Photo #6 and 7. Ok... cute little collar!

First glance; it looks somewhat similar to the collar in #5/6. The style and shape would probably date it to the same general time frame... 1880-1890.

However, this one is made completely differently. Made entirely of hand bobbin techniques; this one has the characteristics of both English Honiton and Brussels Duchesse. The little openwork flowers along the edge and the method of making leaves and turns are both common elements in both techniques.

I think, however, that since there are more "open" areas (the design elements aren't pushed up close to neighboring design elements) and the fact that there are vines that end in a "scroll" shape; that I'm going to say this one is Brussels Duchesse.

Are we looking at the backside in #7? I see a cluster of loose ends on the very left center... is it a mend? or cut off threads? I don't see other "cut offs"... leading me to believe that maybe it is a mend... can't quite see the whole thing. Just curious... at any rate.

Overall a sweet piece!

On to the next piece!
Leslie

 

Photo #8, 9 and 10 and 19 -20
Item 4

OOOH! Lappets! You don't indicate how long... but they do look long! The length depended on the height of wig and hairstyle; placement of a cap; and where the streamers were placed. (Quoting from: Lace a History by Santina Levy: "As a key aspect of the headdress of every lady of significance in a royal court, they were an up-to-the minute reflection of fashion, and thus a good way to date lace designs. Length likewise was a measurement of the prominence of the lady. The longer the lappets, the higher the rank.")

Now mind I'm not saying that these were necessarily "royal"... but it is food for thought at this juncture.

Moving on to the design....which is to say; very interesting! Yes, I'd say you did your homework as the design really mirrors the medal - right down to the cross in the circle at the top!

The piece, is again, constructed in mixed hand made bobbin and needle techniques - making it Point de Gaze / Mixed Brussels. The bobbin is the outer floral design, which includes the edge flowers, and tapes that begin and conclude with the large bell shape at each end. Likewise the ribbon part of the lappet that connects both bells is probably all bobbin (can't see it up close enough).

But, the fanciful medal medallion at the end of each lappet within each bell, are Point de Gaze and are worked separately. Then, probably applied over the top of the netting by hand. If you look at the back; does the netting extend across the back of the medallion??

In photo #10... it looks like the lace is two different colors. Is it? or is it the way that the image was captured? I don't notice it in any other of the photos.

Ok, back to provenance - we'd all love to think that this may have been a "royal" lace - commissioned by someone in Napoleon's court... it _is_ possible. However, there were actually a fair amount of laces made with royal themes throughout the decades, that although they were probably purchased by wealthier citizens; were unlikely that they debuted at Court. This is where provenance comes in - and research...should you choose to find out more.

Probably, a more likely scenario would be some military officer who was awarded membership to the Legion of Honor; may have purchased this for his "lady". Of course, just a guess.

Either way; this is a special piece - the likes of which you don't find every day!

Bravo for finding it; and for more importantly PURCHASING it!

On to the next item:
Leslie

 

Photos #11, 12 and 13
Item number 5 - a handkerchief

First glance: "So crisp" - "So clear" - so "perfect"... it must be machine.

Photo #12 and 13 - Nope! But it IS exquisitely executed handmade needle lace! Just perfect! Another quality piece here.

However... this one I can't quite name yet. My specialty is more in bobbin laces - so although I can identify if it is needle or bobbin; identifying the exact type is harder for me.

Things to consider when trying to identify type:
*very little raised work...although there is some
*very identifiable "connecting bars" - that have double picots
*construction method for design of flowers and leaves
*fillings used

All these things and more will need to be studied to correctly identify it more specifically.

But it certainly is correct to call it hand made needle lace.
It is truly a lovely piece. Nicely balanced with lots of pretty design features. In great shape!

I'll try and do some additional checking on this one tomorrow.
On to the last 2..

Leslie

 

Photos #14 and 15
Item 6 - straight edge

By the width: at least 6"? probably part of a flounce
Looking at photo #15. The lighter color "snowflaky flower" and attached netting are hand needle lace and the darker surrounding area of flowers are all hand bobbin elements.

If you refer to the first piece of lace in photo #1... both constructed using the same methods. Point de Gaze / Mixed Brussels.

Although a pretty piece; but, you can see the quality of workmanship and design don't compare with #1!

This one was probably worked much later when they were competing with machine made pieces... 1880-1890. Therefore, time was everything...they had to pump it out as fast as they could to try to compete. It was a loosing battle. Sadly.

And last but not least...

Leslie

 

Photos #16, 17 and 18
Item 7 - straight edge

Looks to be about 3" wide... I'd say an edging.
It looks like it has a tape of some sort attached to one side; can't see it clear enough - maybe that was the hem cut off something and still attached to the lace?

Photo 16 - pleasing design, graceful elements - bell flowers, roses, shaded leaves, nice light and dark areas

In 17 and 18 - tight and tidy stitches, variety of stitches, heavy outside element outlines, simple connecting bars

This one has all the earmarks of handmade Point de Gaze. All needle and thread stitches.

The reason that the ends are "finished"... is because you are looking at the ends of a "repeat". Undoubtedly made by multiple lace makers; each "repeat" probably spanned from roughly the 8" to the 12" mark on the ruler. It begins at 8 - and ends at 12.

If you hold it up to the light; you should be able to see a slightly darker, probably irregular line going vertically along the right edge of the roses element. Each lacemaker would have been responsible for her 4" (or so); the "manager" (for lack of another word at this time of night) would have been responsible for making sure that each lacemaker was using the same thread. The design would have been planned to be segmented into "doable" size repeats. After completion; another lacemaker would have been responsible for whipping the two repeats invisibly together and hiding the ends. It took a village!

Ok... that's it for me... I'm whooped! But HOW fun! You got some great pieces!

I'll check in tomorrow...
Good night for now.
Cheerio Leslie

 

Wow! I know nothing about lace but they are really stunning! What fantastic finds.
And Leslie @Northern Lights Lodge we are so lucky to have you here! What a wealth of knowledge so generously shared, I’ve just learned so much about lace. Thankyou

 

@Northern Lights Lodge
Leslie, I am speechless at your knowledge, and your generosity in sharing it! What wonderful and fabulous information! I can’t believe what went into making these laces so long ago.
The Bertha collar (item #1) is simply fabulous. I’m so glad you pointed out the layering of some of the large flowers… I hadn’t even noticed that!




The estate sale where I purchased all these pieces appeared to be that of an antique/vintage hoarder, however most of the items were low-end trash, or in very poor condition. But I like to spend time digging and I came across the lace pieces I have posted… As far as I know I got all the (non-polyester) lace there. I know nothing about the person who had lived in the home and owned these items but he/she must’ve been an interesting person!

The lappet is approximately 44 inches long. BTW, I am assuming it is a lappet, if it has a different name please do let me know. I, too, imagine that a Legion of Honour recipient during Napoleon III’s time gave the piece to his beloved wife.

Any ideas about the countries of origin on these pieces, and the black Chantilly lace in my other thread? French?

I cannot express how grateful I am for the information you’ve provided, other than to offer a big and heartfelt thanks!