Are These Examples of Silk Net Lace?

I'm hoping @Northern Lights Lodge can tell me if there's a specific name for these two pieces of antique lace and when they would have been made. I've looked at the various lace lessons on this forum, but am still not sure what to call this type of lace. I think the net is silk because it's extremely lightweight. It looks like the designs were made separately and then hand-sewn to the net background. Is there a specific name for these two lace examples? Are they ca. 19th or early-20th century?

 

Hi @Joan
Ohh! Fun new (old) goodies!

As for example #1 - What a sweet design!!! Love it! I can't tell from here of course, what the net is... they did make exceptionally fine cotton (not so much linen, or flax)... I mean "hair fine" cotton... so it is possible it is cotton or silk. The tapes are likely machine made as the flowers are stitched or tacked to make the curves. Also lots of "cut offs" at the end of each leaf and tendril. Since the tapes are likely cotton; my guess is that the net is cotton as well...which is typical for Battenburg/Battenberg type laces. There are exceptions; but my guess is cotton.

I found these examples (of tape on netting) in a 1898 Battenberg/Battenburg book and they just call them "Applique". Some examples they called "Applique on Point" (meaning the netting) and there was one example of a curtain that they called "Marie Antoinette" applique - however, that one was done with ribbon.



Now for the curiosity of example #2! I love those little "horned" berries!

That netting looks spider web fragile and is a rather oval ground (as example #1 has an almost square grid). If we could count the twists in the verticals and horizontals; I could tell you which stitch was used to make the net; but I think in this case it may not be all that important as it is machine made net.

Next... since the flowers/leaves have a gold cast; even where there is no thread design; even though I can't see it in the photo... I'm guessing that the leafy designs are embroidered on to a VERY fine silk and then cut away and stitched to the net with those fairly long stitches. Of the two examples; I think this second one is more likely to be silk (ground and flowers) than the first one.

Pretty hard to determine which is the front and what is the back from the photo - as I bet they look almost identical from either side. What I can tell you; is that the "design elements" (leaves) would be laid on top of the netting - so that would be the top side. So you'll have to make the call as to which side is which... It "looks" like the second photo may indeed be the back... as I said; see which side the elements are sewn to... that will determine it.

As for the name of example #2: I think we will just have go with "applique" on net and I think roughly 1898 - circa 1900 for sure. Even though it is not a Battenberg/Battenburg style design; being embroidered... I think "applique" on net is quite suitable to call it.

Love that you shared!
Hope that helps!
Cheerio,
Lesli

 

Thank you so much Lesli for all your detailed information about my lace (actually, it belongs to my sister). I'm going to sell it for her and wanted to know how to describe it. Your knowledge about lace is amazing. I will probably be asking for your help again soon after I photograph a 20's or 30's lace dress that also belongs to my sister. It has a matching silk slip so I'm wondering if the lace is silk too.

 

Hi @Joan
I'm happy to share what I know. I hope it is helpful! I'll look forward to hearing/seeing about the dress! Always fun to see a new treasure.

Cheerio,
Leslie

 

Yes, you've been very helpful Leslie. After reading your information on the first example of lace above, I did more googling and found similar examples that were referred to as Brussels applique lace....does that sound right?

I'm working now on stabilizing damaged parts of the lace dress using matching tulle and hand sewing with invisible thread so I can at least hang it on a hanger to steam and photograph it without causing further damage.

 

Hi @Joan,
Yes, I can agree with that reference. Good for you for doing additional homework!

Your fix on the damaged dress sounds good also. Good luck..
Leslie