Featured Bruges Blumwork or Flowerwork and Bruges Duchesse

Discussion in 'Textiles, Needle Arts, Clothing' started by Northern Lights Lodge, May 16, 2020.

  1. Northern Lights Lodge

    Northern Lights Lodge Well-Known Member

    If you have ever been to Bruges, perhaps you will have seen bobbin lacemaker's sitting out in the street working on their pillows. Chances were good that they were making Bruges Blumwork or Flowerwork.

    Bruges flowerwork lace is "part" or "pieced" lace; meaning that it is worked in pieces or "elements" and then attached together with a grid of plaits (usually with picots - a little spike on the plait or braid), or fancy fillings. Known by it's stylized tape scrolls, leaves and circular flowers and worked in a fair size thread, it was relatively easy to make, take care of and was washable. Usually, symmetrical and straightforward designs; Bruges has had a long lived production since 1850.

    A modern lace school in Bruges, called the Kantcentrum, delivers lace courses and workshops. It also runs its own publishing house for books and lace patterns.

    This is a very typical, well worked, Bruges Blumwork doily
    Bruges flowerwork laceA.jpg
    A little bit more fanciful example of Bruges Blumwork
    bruges flowerwork corner.jpg
    Bruges Blumwork with a little more variation in stitches and elements. However, still worked "flat" with no raised work and relying on stylized flower, leaf and variations of stitches and grounds.
    bruge blomworkA.jpg

    I mentioned in the discussion "A bit about Modern Lace History"; that modern lace making is evolving. This is a good example. The elements in this piece are truly stylized Bruge Blumwork/Flowerwork (flowers and leaves)- but they have been removed from the background grid and worked separately to be stacked and are now quite 3-Dimensional.
    bruges blomwork 3DA.jpg


    A finer form of flowerwork is called Bruges Duchesse. It has very similar floral elements; leaves, flowers, vines, scrolls - but the designs, although usually symmetrical and/or repetitive are worked with finer thread and were usually utilized for collars, handkerchiefs and edgings. Duchesse also utilized more complicated elements (leaves, flowers, vines) and stitches.

    Bruges Duchesse
    Bruges duchesseA.jpg
    Another example Bruges Duchesse
    bruges-duchesse-antique-bobbin-laceA.jpg

    In this close up Bruges Duchesse example you can see that there are also outlines of elements and some evidence of raised work. (Refer to bundling techniques found in Lesson #10).
    Handmade-Bruges-Duchess A.jpg
    Bruges Duchesse is often confused with Honiton; as they, at a glance look very similar.

    Well, cheerio for now.
    Leslie
     
    Figtree3, Bronwen, quirkygirl and 3 others like this.
  2. Bev aka thelmasstuff

    Bev aka thelmasstuff Colored pencil artist extraordinaire ;)

    I have two doilies purchased in Bruges many years ago. I've always been afraid to use them because they're so fragile. I am now thinking I want to get them framed because why have something so beautiful put away.
     
  3. Northern Lights Lodge

    Northern Lights Lodge Well-Known Member

    Oh, by all means use them! I'm sure they would look lovely framed! I usually mount my lace on an acid free mat board... I like the variety of colors of suade board. I ask for the mat... and mount it myself. I lay the lace out on the board and pre-prick small holes (one hole IN an existing pin hole and one hole right next to it - although you could go in and out the same pin hole/ just need to make sure you go over some of the lace first). I tie it off on the back. In this manner, the lace isn't damaged. After I have it matted; I take it back to the framer for him to apply the glass and frame. You will have to show us your finished examples!
    Leslie
     
    Figtree3 likes this.
  4. Bev aka thelmasstuff

    Bev aka thelmasstuff Colored pencil artist extraordinaire ;)

    I have a lot of colored mat boards because I use it for my colored pencil drawings.
     
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