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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;mirana, post: 10320556, member: 79705&quot;]This was part of a couple of lots of forlorn cameos I bought off a uk seller who apparently valued the gold more than a complete item. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/smilies/rolleyes.png" class="mceSmilie" alt=":rolleyes:" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>She was really icky.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]518700[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>A good soak in dish soap water and a gentle needle push for any deep bits.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]518701[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Good ol Charles Schmoll signature. I think this is on the better end for his carvings/wares.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]518702[/ATTACH]&nbsp; </p><p>Z/M? W/Z I think less likely due to the positioning of the through stroke.</p><p><br /></p><p>I have an earlier broken cameo that I&#039;ve experimented with a bit looking for an acid-free and un-affixed option in &quot;restoration.&quot; I came across <a href="https://art.thewalters.org/object/42.560/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://art.thewalters.org/object/42.560/" rel="nofollow">a cameo at The Walters Art Museum</a> where they used layers of painted mylar to &quot;restore&quot; the shape of the cameo in order to put it on view. I bet the mylar does a decent job at mimicking light play, but I&#039;m trying clay because I don&#039;t want to glue to the shell. I understand they probably used a water soluble, stable glue, so it is an option if I want to try something else later.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]518703[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>She is also signed....</p><p>[ATTACH=full]518704[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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