Dull Antique Tortoise Shell

Mineral Oil should give the same results without the chance of it going rancid like Olive Oil can/will. Also, if using a Dremel, be careful not to "burn" the item!!!!!

 

I was reading up on an article where a dealer had used a power buffer on antique Tortoiseshell and it had obliterated all the character from the pieces, Also as you say you have to be careful, It doesn't do for Tortoiseshell to get hot.
I'll check out the Mineral oil too.

I think though that if the Tortoiseshell is buffed after treating with Olive oil it shouldn't cause any problems

 

I've never had olive oil go rancid. I use a soft cloth to polish it off afterwards.

 

Hi,
Bear and I have had this discussion for years now olive oil vs mineral oil. She uses it on wooden salad bowls and I mineral oil. I say olive oil will go rancid she says "No it won"t". I have always been told to use mineral oil instead of olive oil. To me olive oil is to eat.LOL
greg

 

Once buffed off with a cloth theres no smell or anything, I found some expert advice and Olive oil an Almond oil are both recommended.

By the way I use Olive oil to remove my waterproof mascara when I run out of eye makeup remover, It has many uses

 

I cook with it........

 

Me too
It has quite a few beauty uses, Hair conditioner, Dry skin such as cracked heels, The list goes on.

 

I've noticed that olive oil in my kitchen cabinet never seems to go rancid. I do use it semi-regularly for cooking, but not enough to use it up very quickly.

 

WHO knew.....gotta be a list out there!!!!!!

 

IF one were to try buffing, it is possible to get kits containing solid sticks of very fine abrasive; one rubs them on a cloth, then polishes the item, moving from coarser to finer. Can also rub on a cloth buffing wheel and use a powered wheel or drill.
My kit was intended for use in briar pipe-making, and came from a dealer in pipe-making supplies. There are two sticks, coarse and fine, for polishing pipe-stems, which are made of very hard rubber, or plastic; and three (coarse, medium, fine) intended for polishing briar.
The finest is like jeweler's rouge, the coarser like Tripoli or emery; most are so fine that you'd hardly consider them abrasive. If in doubt, try the finest, and see if that is adequate; if scratches remain, try one of the coarser grades and move to the finer.
The sticks last pretty much forever; I've used them for polishing hard woods such as briar; soapstone; metals, plastic; rubbing out scratches in acrylic.....
Similar kits are pretty common, for example
http://www.pjtool.com/junior-jewelers-rouge-polishing-kit.aspx

 

Thank you, Thats really helpful, I'll definitely check whats available here.

 

Oh, and another very mild abrasive/polish: toothpaste.
It can be used as a gentle polishing medium for ceramics, metals, plastic, wood; and won't harm most materials. Rub on a cloth or paper towel, and see if it helps. Always trying first in an inconspicuous spot, of course.

 

Thank you

 

Another readily available, here anyway, abrasive is sodium bicarbonate aka baking soda. It's used for all sorts of things, including testing bakelite when rubbed on with a damp cotton swab.

 

good for brushing teeth too....

 

That's another I didn't know about, Thank you

 

I'll admit it - this gave me a real giggle!

When I was at my local antiques shop, one of the chaps there suggested using (VERY SMALL) amounts of Brasso liquid metal-polish to clean the grime off of antique ivory to restore the shine. I tried it and it worked very well.

Perhaps something like that might work on the shell? And then some sort of wax or oil on top, to preserve the shine? Just keep in mind that when I used Brasso, I used the absolutely SMALLEST amount.

 

I think I saw an article somewhere that mentioned metal polish.

 

I've used Duraglit wadding very carefully on tortoiseshell with silver inlay.

As to abrasives, cerium oxide is used for glass. Try that.

 

What effect did the Duraglit give you? Did this give you a better base for polishing?