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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;verybrad, post: 97683, member: 37&quot;]Not Shaker but similar in style to what they did.&nbsp;&nbsp; Does seem to have some age but I think 20th century in origin.&nbsp; As you can see from the responses, there are various approaches to wood conservation or restoration.&nbsp; While using water to clean or swell the wood, might have some beneficial affect, it will also raise the grain on the wood if it does not have a good finish on it to begin with.&nbsp; I would hesitate to recommend this approach.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>The only way to really fix loose joints is to remove any nails, take them apart, clean off old glue, re-glue, and clamp til dry.&nbsp; You might have some success by injecting glue into the joints and clamping but success is not guaranteed.&nbsp; Some cyanoacrylate glues may work better in this manner but I have not personally tried them. </p><p><br /></p><p>As far as the dry splints in the seat, oiling will be beneficial.&nbsp; There are various oils that will work.&nbsp; One good product that is readily available is Watco Danish Oil.&nbsp; It is thin enough that it will penetrate and provides a protective finish if you apply it in multiple coats.&nbsp; It also comes in colors if you want to add some stain.&nbsp; There are other similar products available or you can make your own.&nbsp; If you use some of the other oils, make sure that they are thin enough to penetrate the wood in the first couple coats.&nbsp; Oils based products can be thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine if necessary. </p><p><br /></p><p>When making my own oil based products, I prefer tung oil or a mixture that includes it.&nbsp; Heavier oils and waxes will serve better as a top coat or finish.&nbsp; Straight tung oil will work in this manner as well. It does have a relatively long dry time, as do most oils, so there may be better alternatives for a top finish.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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