Featured Lace Lesson #2 Handmade Bedsfordshire vs Machine Bedsfordshire

Hi everyone,
Since some of you voiced an interest in continued lace lessons; I shall endeavor to continue.

This one shall be a comparison of Bedsfordshire lace. Also referred to as "Beds Lace". First of all, the name comes from Bedsfordshire, England. Bobbin lacemaking having been introduced in England as early as the 1600's; being referred to in it's early years as "bone lace".

Earlier Beds designs are generally quite spindly. Having only a few design features; such as a narrow tape trail, skinny leaves, and were rather lack luster. See Photo #1 example below.



By the 1800's the designs were becoming quite beautifully floral and eventually many designs picked up the beautiful "wheat leaves" that were a prominent feature in Maltese Lace.

Photo #2 and #3. Machine made example.
This lace looks very much the same; no matter which side you look at.
Generally, it looks very "messy".
If you follow *1 (in red); down the length of that large shell element; the threads appear to run "longwise" all the way around - instead of having a zig zag appearance going from side to side of the tape (which is more obvious lower on in that tape #5).
*2. The leaves are very blocky in appearance; they lack uniformity and although there can certainly be "square" or "rectangular" tallies (or wheat leaves) - these particular leaves are really suppose to be leaf shape - rather than geometric.
*3. The connecting threads here "should" be braided... instead they just run back and forth.
*4. There are tiny threads here which apparently aid in keeping that oval structure more solid.
*6. This area should be pairs of threads woven through each other with a pin in the center - leaving a distinct pin hole - sometimes called a windmill. This however looks like one braid is distinctly running over another braid.
*7. This "should" look like a taut bar, plait or braid connecting from one pinhole to another. This looks very loose and saggy - almost zig-zag in appearance.
*8. (sorry I forgot to number). This SHOULD be a neat crossing of threads; instead it is just a jumble.
*9. I also forgot to mention the typical Beds Lace "picket fence" along the lower edge.


In comparison, please review photos #4 and 5. Handmade Bed's Lace.
#4 is the front side. It generally has a much "cleaner/crisper" appearance than the machine made example. Please note the tiny tally (leaf) overlays on top of the lobes of each larger leaf. Many people mistakenly choose this side as the back of the lace. It is not; this is part of the design element called "raised work".

Photo #5. This is the back side of the handmade piece. You will notice the tiny tallies over the larger leaves are missing; as they are only to appear on the top side of the lace.

Also missing are any visible knots. Most handmade bobbin lace contains a minimum - if any - knots. So feeling for knots, as in the hand netted lace, is not helpful in this form of lace. Although, a knot may be found here and there; sometimes to add a new thread, sometimes to repair a broken thread and occasionally to tie off and end the work - it is accidental rather than the rule and really can vary from piece to piece.


Compare photos #6 and #7.


*1. A true zig-zag tape path.
*2. Although not the most uniform wheat leaves I've ever seen; they are much more uniform than the machine made leaves with that distinctive 3 lobe look running the length of the leaf (sort of giving the appearance of a back of a fossil trilobite).
*3. A nicely taut bar, plait or braid with a nicely twisted "picot' - giving it a very clean appearance.
*4. A nicely worked crossing of bars, plaits or braids - giving a very flat woven appearance.
*5. Typical "picket fence" feature found on Bed's and Bed's Maltese laces.
*6. This particular piece of lace (a collar worked in silk) was worked in 3 separate pieces and then basted together to make a collar. This line represents where the basting stitches are.

Well, there is my commentary comparing machine and hand made. I think it is interesting to note that in the solid right hand diamond shape in the above photo; there is an error. One of the horizontal pairs of threads became twisted in the body of the work. It leaves two tiny holes; just above the horizontal center.

Generally speaking; this piece is well done. Few "errors" like the misplaced twisted thread; but tension could be more uniform. I almost think it may be the fault of the pattern.

Photo #8. In contrast; I took this example of a perfectly executed Beds Lace off the internet. I couldn't get a clear - up close photo; but it clearly shows the precision workmanship of the pattern makers skill AND the lacemaker's skill! It also is a piece worked at the pinnacle of the best Bedsfordshire laces circa 1880-1890. The gridwork is geometrically precision and the flora is beautifully curvalinear. A lovely example of handmade Beds.


I hope I've explained this in identifiable language. If you have questions; please feel free to ask.

Leslie

 

ALL nice but #8 is gorgeous !!! ... Joy.

 

Isn't it?!
Leslie

 

The Beds is exquisite. I will keep an eye out but doubt I will find any at the jumble.

 

You never know... anywhere in Jolly Old is closer to it's origins than I am in mid-country USA. And even I have found a few pieces... not top of the line...but pretty and collectible!
Leslie

 

Thank you for sharing with us. Maybe we could have these pinned somewhere for future reference?

 

I'm willing; but know not how to accomplish that. Advise?

Leslie

 

maybe Davey or Book could look into that,I don't know how to do it.

 

Absolutely, and I love your lace info. I am from the Continent, we hardly get any English lace here, but I have always been fascinated by any kind of lace making.
Here in the Netherlands we mostly see Dutch, Belgian and French techniques. (Hint... )
And as a fan collector I have lace fans, especially Brussels, Chantilly, and Youghal.

Maybe make this a general lace indentification thread, to be put at the top of the Textile, etc forum? Just thinking out loud...

 

I'm so pleased you are enjoying the lace id lessons! I'm open to that idea...but it seems like a: I don't know how to do that and b: it seems that the manager of this site should ok such a thing.

You should add photos of your fans for us!

Thanks for your feedback!

 

Thanks for this awesome information!!! I love linens of all types and have been able to acquire a few from Belguim and Germany. Always wondering about the lace and how it could have been made. I do understand this may not be the same but... Love all of this knowledge. Thank you so very much for sharing !!!

 

I'm glad you are enjoying the posts!
Leslie

 

Thank you for this wonderful lesson on Lace. We get so many pieces of lace at the Richards-DAR Museum and it's always a quandary as to whether it is handmade lace or machine made lace. Our authority on laces has just recently died and now we have no one in our area to help us. Will probably be making posts when I can get to the museum after the corona virus and can take some good pictures.

 

Sorry to hear that, Barbara.
As you know, people here are happy to help if they can, and we are lucky that @Northern Lights Lodge is here to share her valuable expertise on lace.

 

Hi Barbara,
I don't know where that museum is... but no worries...
All I need is a longer view and some closeups - front and back... I'll let you know if I need more info!
I'm here to help!

Leslie

 

Thank you! (Blush)
Leslie

 

Minute quibble. It's Bedfordshire: Beds is the abbreviation but not part of the full name.

 

Leslie--thanks so very much for this wonderful tutorial! I've learned so much from you and really appreciate you taking the time to share your wonderful, expert knowledge with us!

 

My pleasure... now the question is: do you folks out there in virtual reality land, wish me to continue identifying machine from hand made - or shall I switch over to identifying one kind of hand made from another?? Is there another lace related topic you folks would all like me to elaborate upon?

Leslie