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Lesson #6 - Black bobbin - Handmade vs Machine made
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<p>[QUOTE="Northern Lights Lodge, post: 1970692, member: 13464"]I do agree! There are a lot of very "intensely" made HUGE pieces of Chantilly. Other forms as well. But there is something truly incredible about the shading in Chantilly...due to that half stitch. It doesn't show up so much in blonde, but is more recognizable in black. Huge collars, capes, lappets, parasol covers, flounces.... it boggles the mind. Therefore - "joins" are very important when "reading" lace to determine if it is handmade or machine made. </p><p><br /></p><p>In the black and white photo of the woman making that very wide piece of lace on one pillow... I would like to point out that it is extreme and unusual. That lace is quite coarse and therefore; despite how many pairs she is working with - it is deceiving, as the coarser the thread, the fewer the pairs needed to create the width. </p><p><br /></p><p>I dare say that working a piece of Chantilly that wide - would have been impossible for one person to work - due to the crazy amount of bobbins needed to complete that much width. The speed to work across just one row would have been so self limiting - that it would have taken an unfathomable amount of time for one person to accomplish even an inch across. Therefore; these large very fine pieces HAD to be worked by many.</p><p><br /></p><p>Because of the very fine size of the thread and the sheer size of the project - many hands were needed to complete larger projects. The handmade lace industry employed literally thousands of people (particularly in Europe - England, France, Belgium, Italy, etc...) and that industry came to a screeching halt when machines displaced most of the lacemakers. </p><p><br /></p><p>The first machines were invented in the early 1800's...but, it wasn't until the mid-1800's that the hand industry (for all intents and purposes) died. </p><p><br /></p><p>As for understanding how it is made and watching lacemakers... I've demonstrated many times and it is important for the viewer to understand that unless the demonstrator has you stand BEHIND her - it will always look confusing! I try to have people stand behind me. </p><p><br /></p><p>Simply put, it is a form of weaving. Threads are anchored by means of pins to a pattern. Despite the fact that sometimes the lace maker must stack her bobbins to make room to work... she really doesn't pay much attention TO the bobbins. Her eye follows the "next set of threads" that she needs to use that are in relation to the pins. </p><p><br /></p><p>Generally speaking, she chooses the next pair - completes the stitch with the pair that is the "worker" and the next "new" pair. She will work across the row or complete the next stitch. the pairs "work" or dance... and the stitch is complete (and or the pin is set) she moves on to the next pair. </p><p><br /></p><p>Despite how it "looks" - it is orderly, mechanical, methodic, melodic, repetitive, relaxing, and I personally love the sound that the bobbins make.</p><p><br /></p><p>The next time you have the opportunity to watch someone demonstrate; try to sneak a view watching over their shoulder. It should make a difference to understanding the mechanical nature. Try to focus on the threads being worked in relation to where they are pinned - rather than the end attached to the bobbin!</p><p><br /></p><p>Hope that helps... gotta scoot for now...</p><p>Leslie[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Northern Lights Lodge, post: 1970692, member: 13464"]I do agree! There are a lot of very "intensely" made HUGE pieces of Chantilly. Other forms as well. But there is something truly incredible about the shading in Chantilly...due to that half stitch. It doesn't show up so much in blonde, but is more recognizable in black. Huge collars, capes, lappets, parasol covers, flounces.... it boggles the mind. Therefore - "joins" are very important when "reading" lace to determine if it is handmade or machine made. In the black and white photo of the woman making that very wide piece of lace on one pillow... I would like to point out that it is extreme and unusual. That lace is quite coarse and therefore; despite how many pairs she is working with - it is deceiving, as the coarser the thread, the fewer the pairs needed to create the width. I dare say that working a piece of Chantilly that wide - would have been impossible for one person to work - due to the crazy amount of bobbins needed to complete that much width. The speed to work across just one row would have been so self limiting - that it would have taken an unfathomable amount of time for one person to accomplish even an inch across. Therefore; these large very fine pieces HAD to be worked by many. Because of the very fine size of the thread and the sheer size of the project - many hands were needed to complete larger projects. The handmade lace industry employed literally thousands of people (particularly in Europe - England, France, Belgium, Italy, etc...) and that industry came to a screeching halt when machines displaced most of the lacemakers. The first machines were invented in the early 1800's...but, it wasn't until the mid-1800's that the hand industry (for all intents and purposes) died. As for understanding how it is made and watching lacemakers... I've demonstrated many times and it is important for the viewer to understand that unless the demonstrator has you stand BEHIND her - it will always look confusing! I try to have people stand behind me. Simply put, it is a form of weaving. Threads are anchored by means of pins to a pattern. Despite the fact that sometimes the lace maker must stack her bobbins to make room to work... she really doesn't pay much attention TO the bobbins. Her eye follows the "next set of threads" that she needs to use that are in relation to the pins. Generally speaking, she chooses the next pair - completes the stitch with the pair that is the "worker" and the next "new" pair. She will work across the row or complete the next stitch. the pairs "work" or dance... and the stitch is complete (and or the pin is set) she moves on to the next pair. Despite how it "looks" - it is orderly, mechanical, methodic, melodic, repetitive, relaxing, and I personally love the sound that the bobbins make. The next time you have the opportunity to watch someone demonstrate; try to sneak a view watching over their shoulder. It should make a difference to understanding the mechanical nature. Try to focus on the threads being worked in relation to where they are pinned - rather than the end attached to the bobbin! Hope that helps... gotta scoot for now... Leslie[/QUOTE]
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