Featured Mission style sideboard info wanted

Discussion in 'Furniture' started by Sparky, Sep 24, 2018.

  1. Sparky

    Sparky Member

    Hello all! I picked up this sideboard at auction a few weeks back. It needs some serious TLC, namely, missing and warped veneer :(. But I loved the look of it - saw that quarter sawn oak and just drooled - and got it for a song! The more I look it over, the more curious I get about its history. Every single joint is mortise and tenon, save the dovetailed drawers. Only the (warped) top and drawer/door fronts are quarter sawn oak veneered - the sides are suprisingly not. The mirror is aged, with what looks to be two candle holders on the sides (I’ll post a pic). I don’t care about value, as this is staying with me (unless it’s super valuable...). I think I’m weird...I like vintage “brown” furniture, as it’s kind of comforting to me to have it around. I have a soft spot for waterfall stuff lol.

    The pulls are all hand carved, and of course, it was missing 5, so I found some replacements that sort of fit - just so I can open the drawers for the time being. It has wooden casters; I’m not sure they’re original, because I have a matching 5th one. I wish old furniture could talk. :)

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    I’m at an impass on how to fix the top. It’s three strips of veneer, and I’m terrified to even try to repair it, as I’ve never done that sort of thing. I cannot find any replacement veneer that even comes close to looking similar. Which is not shocking.

    My apologies for the photos (and the junk in the background...it’s hanging out in my shop until I get a game plan). I haven’t dared even wipe down the top yet, hence the grime :(.
    Any advice or info is greatly appreciated!! Thank you!! B41B95C8-9DF9-4DBD-85C0-2B32C069A854.jpeg

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  2. Aquitaine

    Aquitaine Is What It IS! But NEVER BORED!

    @verybrad, @James Conrad & anyone else who does restoration, I think she needs your help more than I can provide!!!! IF you are up for tackling this yourself, I'd say you have a pretty big project ahead of you!!!! On the other hand, I too love the veneer and look of the piece!!!:):) AND, WELCOME to Antiquers, Sparky, If I missed you with that before!!!!
     
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  3. Sparky

    Sparky Member

    Thank you Aquitaine! So glad to be here, and eager to learn!

    I’m in Washington state/PST, so it might be too late/too early for others to chime in yet. I had to post before I went to bed lol. :)
     
  4. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    Quite the project but one worth doing. Don't recognize this as being from a top maker but does appear to be a quality piece. Of course, circa 1910.

    working with veneer is pretty tricky. When you see it raised like on top, it has expanded. Have had some luck in slicing out a strip and gluing the rest flat. A steel plate that you can stack weight on really helps in this process. Have heard of using lead shot in a bag for weighting veneers while gluing but have never tried it. As for missing veneer, you are going to need some quatersawn white oak. Most of what is on the market these days is red oak. I try to harvest veneers from other projects when I can. occasionally can harvest from the subject piece if there is an area where it can be taken without showing. For example, possibly a strip from the back of the top that would be covered by the mirror could work.
     
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  5. James Conrad

    James Conrad Well-Known Member

    Agrees however, if the substrate (wood under veneer) is even slightly punky (soft, spongy) this method will not work as the glue won't hold.
     
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  6. gregsglass

    gregsglass Well-Known Member

    Hi,
    I have had a few tops like yours. I tried using an old iron with steam and pressing down the veneer adding an aluminium foil layer weighted down with a LOT of books for several days. About 75% it worked. A few took using a razor blade to slice a tiny piece of the veneer off. If it really offends you just cover the top with a heavy piece of glass. I had a stack of salvaged veneers off of old broken pieces. Good luck.
    greg
     
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  7. silverthwait

    silverthwait Well-Known Member

    Greg's method, if it works, might be tried before all others as it is less complicated and intrusuve. I remember doing the same thing myself when I was in college. My dorm was liberally supplied with desks and dressers from the 19-teens, and while the desk was fine (homely, but big enough), the dresser had a seven-inch bubble up near the mirror.

    Figuring that water had been spilled and caused the situation, I poured hot water on a wash cloth, added a piece of foil over that and then a heavy pile of books.

    Voila! I'm a genius!
     
  8. James Conrad

    James Conrad Well-Known Member

    Yep, glued down veneer does not like water at all and if there are seams as is the case here......
    It's actually easier to replace veneer rather than repair it, the bad news is, a piece large enough for whole top would likely cost more than the piece is worth.
     
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  9. Sparky

    Sparky Member

    Thanks everyone for the tips! I've read of several methods, including the steam one. The veneer is warped up to about 2" at the back, so I can clearly see the subwood (oak), and it appears to be in ok shape.

    I have plenty of weights laying around that I could use. The auction house had the mirror sitting right on the veneer, but it's sprung back up now that I removed it, so it might be "new" damage? I'm terrified that if I just put the mirror back on now, it'll crack/splinter the veneer horribly. I should add that it's THICK veneer, almost 1/8".

    I'll post a pic of the mirror tonight when I get back out to the shop.

    And YES - replacement quarter sawn veneer is waaaaay too expensive for me, at 4x the cost of the entire sideboard. Plus I'm of the school to preserve what I can without destroying it. :)

    Do you recommend a certain type of glue? Or should I see if heat/steam will "reactivate" the glue, assuming it's hide glue?
     
    Aquitaine likes this.
  10. James Conrad

    James Conrad Well-Known Member

    I really doubt it is hide glue as it's a 20th century piece, be great if it was though,
    "Hide glue softens easily when dampened or heated, and regluing the lifted veneer is sometimes possible by carefully applying moisture and heat with a clothes iron. "
    Often modern type glues crystalize over time and look like tiny rocks and if that's the case, it's a problem as it must be removed or find a solvent to dissolve it
     
  11. James Conrad

    James Conrad Well-Known Member

    Yeah, i don't doubt it, restoration of old furniture can get pricey in a hurry which is why it sells so cheap when a piece needs work.
     
  12. Sparky

    Sparky Member

    Oi. If it's a more modern glue, I'm assuming I would be stuck trying to remove the entire piece of veneer, cleaning the sub-wood, flattening the veneer and regluing. Or should I just try flattening using steam first - the mirror will hold it down?

    I don't like perfectly restored pieces, although I respect the work that went into them greatly. I like the scarred and banged up stuff. Way more character, and if it's lasted this long, it's much better to have than IKEA lol. I have a huge old oak sideboard, likely 10 years or so newer than this piece, that is this way. It's not veneered, but rather solid oak (parts quarter sawn). The top is 3" thick and warped, the pulls are tarnished, and the finish is dull. And I love it. :)
     
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  13. James Conrad

    James Conrad Well-Known Member

    Yes, treat it as a glue that is water soluble like hide glue, if that doesn't work you will have to devise a plan B
     
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  14. Figtree3

    Figtree3 What would you do if you weren't afraid?

    @Sparky , I hope you will post an update with photos after you've finished with this project.
     
    Sparky and i need help like this.
  15. Sparky

    Sparky Member

    Definitely!! Currently home sick, but I’m hoping to get back to it soon.
     
    Figtree3 likes this.
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