Need advice, refinishing library table

Discussion in 'Furniture' started by Shet7, Nov 25, 2016.

  1. Shet7

    Shet7 New Member

    IMG_0775.JPG IMG_0774.JPG I found this table on Craigslist and really like the design. I was sad to find that the original finish had been stripped off, but I purchased it anyway. I'm an avid woodworker, and have built and taught woodworking in the past, but don't have much experience with antiques. I'd like to refinish it, but keep the worn and aged condition. I'd like some advice on types of stain and finishes, that would match the original (although I don't know what it original looked like). Any advice would help. Thanks.
     
  2. komokwa

    komokwa The Truth is out there...!

    Free your mind...original is boring !
    The wood is nice , with good grain.
    I'd paint the feet knobs black, and do the base and columns in a soft cherry wood stain, and a light golden stain on the table top.

    Let your heart pick the hues...:happy:
     
  3. Ownedbybear

    Ownedbybear Well-Known Member

    I'd just wax it.
     
  4. Shet7

    Shet7 New Member

    That's not a bad idea, I could get creative with it. but I'd like to try and make it look original.
     
  5. Shet7

    Shet7 New Member

    Yeah I probably will. I think I'll stain it with dark walnut danish oil, and wax it.
     
  6. gregsglass

    gregsglass Well-Known Member

    Hi,
    I would get a couple cans of red mahogany good quality shoe wax. Give it a couple of coats and it will look wonderful.
    greg
     
  7. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    This doesn't need a lot. I think if you clean it thoroughly with lacquer thinner first to prepare the surface, you will find it takes a color of its own while wet. If you like that color, all you would need to do is add a finish. I don't know if you want to try and do something with those stains but they will be hard to eliminate completely. I can't tell if this is a solid or veneer top from this picture. If solid, they can be sanded out. If a veneer, you will probably have to live with them. You can try bleaching with oxalic acid but it is usually only partially successful and may damage a veneer.

    If you want it darker, you can stain it. This probably would have been available in both a golden color or a darker finish. I doubt you will be able to replicate a golden finish exactly at this point without sanding first but the natural color of the wood should be pleasing. For dark finishes on antiques, I really like Minwax Jacobean. It has more red in it than a dark walnut stain but not as much as a mahogany stain. If you don't want any red, use a dark walnut stain. Also, a dark finish could be used to blend around those stains to some extent so may be a factor for you.

    Once you decide on the color, it is time to add a top finish. I would start with a penetrating finish that will allow you to even out the color if necessary along the way. I like a tung oil varnish for this. There are several commercial products or make your own by mixing equal parts oil-based varnish, mineral spirits, and tung oil. Once the first coat is on (apply thinly with a rag) you will be able to see if you need to even out the color in any areas with stain. Because the finish penetrates, you can still do this at this stage. If you had used a poly or other finish that doesn't penetrate well, you could not do this. Once the color is to your liking, you can add more coats of finish. You can usually recoat with out it thoroughly drying but it should feel pretty dry to the touch. If the wood continues to soak in the finish and look dull, keep coating. This usually takes at least three coats of the oil-varnish mixture to get a good look but may take more. The final coat could eliminate the mineral spirits in the mixture but it is fine to continue with it as-is. Once thoroughly dry, top it off with a furniture paste wax.

    This is my method to get a good look for antiques. It doesn't necessarily replicate the original finish but you probably don't want this to look new anyway. You should achieve a warm, not too shiny, glow with this method. I am sure that others have different methods than this. Theirs may be equally viable.
     
    Bakersgma likes this.
  8. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    I wrote the above before reading this. Sounds like you are on the right track. The Danish oil is a penetrating finish. I prefer the tung oil varnish but you should be able to use the Danish oil with good results.
     
  9. Shet7

    Shet7 New Member

    It's solid wood, no veneer. I've never used tung oil, but I like the idea of being able to even out the color. I think I'll try your method. Thanks!
     
  10. Happy!

    Happy! Well-Known Member

    Please return and post pics when you are done! It will be great to see how it turns out.
     
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