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<p>[QUOTE="James Conrad, post: 1138687, member: 5066"]You are talking about how the top was attached?</p><p>If so, usually handmade screws cut with a file or wood pins.</p><p>The iron brace holding dovetailed legs, attached with hand wrought iron nails almost always.</p><p>The legs are very fragile, not much wood to hold them into column, that nailed on iron brace helped a lot but was far from saving a leg from a hard bump, the dovetailed leg simply snapped off at the column.</p><p><br /></p><p>Another feature of most tilt top period candle stands, many have scorch marks on bottom of tabletop because, houses were drafty back then so it was common to put the candle on top of the " birdcage block" & use the tilted top as a draft stop so the candle wouldn't flicker. Net result? bottom of top should /would have burn/scorch marks. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie32" alt=":cigar:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="James Conrad, post: 1138687, member: 5066"]You are talking about how the top was attached? If so, usually handmade screws cut with a file or wood pins. The iron brace holding dovetailed legs, attached with hand wrought iron nails almost always. The legs are very fragile, not much wood to hold them into column, that nailed on iron brace helped a lot but was far from saving a leg from a hard bump, the dovetailed leg simply snapped off at the column. Another feature of most tilt top period candle stands, many have scorch marks on bottom of tabletop because, houses were drafty back then so it was common to put the candle on top of the " birdcage block" & use the tilted top as a draft stop so the candle wouldn't flicker. Net result? bottom of top should /would have burn/scorch marks. :cigar:[/QUOTE]
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