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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;moreotherstuff, post: 75718, member: 56&quot;]Very nice and effective photos.&nbsp; I must say that, while I like the card and the exposure and crispness of the scan, it&#039;s making me crazy that it&#039;s clipped on the one side.</p><p><br /></p><p>One thing I haven&#039;t tried that has been on my mind for a long time is the use of an 18% gray background.&nbsp; This is a neutral gray tone used to measure the intensity of incidental light when doing metered readings for photographic exposure settings.</p><p><br /></p><p>The thing is that with an automatic camera, light metering is being done internally whether you like it or not.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you shoot a white object against a dark ground, you have to have the object close enough that it is a significant part of what the camera is seeing, otherwise the camera is mostly seeing the dark ground and the exposure will compensate for that darkness, leaving the object very contrasty (if not a white silhouette).</p><p><br /></p><p>If shooting against a white ground, the camera compensates for all that white, leaving the object looking dark.</p><p><br /></p><p>Having a neutral gray ground ought assist in giving you correctly exposed pictures when using an automatic camera.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you have a camera that allows you to adjust the various settings, a gray card, or neutral gray background, can still be useful in determining what those settings should be.</p><p><br /></p><p>Of course you can put a dark object against a dark ground, or a light object against a light ground, but in my experience the results are seldom satisfying.</p><p><br /></p><p>There have been times when I have photographed a light object against a dark and light ground in turn and then copied the better exposed object into the more attractive ground.&nbsp; But who needs that aggravation?[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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